CASSOULET DE CASTELNAUDARY

Translated from Larousse Gastronomique by my brother Leonard Langeland

This recipe has a lot of components, but-while a little ingredient searching is necessary-the actual cooking is pretty simple. Also, the recipe can be prepared by spreading the steps out over a few days. For example, make the confit (recipe on proceeding page) a few days ahead. Or, complete steps 1 thru 3, then refrigerate overnight. Next day, warm the pot to room temperature and proceed with step 4. Or, you could get step 4 all ready and refrigerate for a couple of days, then heat gently heat on top of the stove until simmering and proceed in the oven.

Some tips
First the confit is supposed to be simmered in melted duck fat. This is hardly a staple in most home kitchens. So if you don't save duck trimmings, ask at a market like Roche Bros or a specialty store The Brown Jug to get some for you. Or order online from a place like D'Artagnan.com. Confession: we CHEAT and use olive oil. I know purists will howl that you don't get the right texture, but the results are still excellent and, once you have the duck confit oil, you can freeze it and use it again and again.

Second, the secret to cassoulet is pigskin. It gives the beans an unctuous, creamy texture that you will start to crave once you have had it. The appropriate texture is impossible to create without pigskin. If you change everything else in this recipe keep the pigskin. How to find pigskin? In the market, pork shoulder or butt comes with skin on. Ask the butcher to trim it off and give it to you with the pork. Or call ahead a day or so and ask your butcher to save a pound of pigskin for you. Initially you'll feel a little weird asking, but they like to help and should get what you need.

Third, other than the sacrosanct pigskin you can mix, match, add, and delete ingredients as you see fit. Don't like lamb? Leave it out. Want hot sausage? Use it. Love garlic? Nestle some peeled cloves in the beans during step 4.

Ingredients:
Step 1
2 lb Great Northern white beans
3/4 lb salt pork
1 lb pigskin rolled up and tied with kitchen twine
1 medium carrot
1 medium onion stuck with 2 cloves
4 cloves of garlic, peeled
1 bouquet garni (sprig flat leaf parsley, 2 sprigs fresh thyme, and a bay leaf tied in a cheesecloth)

Step 2
1 large onion, chopped fine
1 Tbsp duck fat or olive oil
1 lb boned pork shoulder, cut into two-inch cubes
1 lb boned leg of lamb, cut into two-inch cubes
1/2 cup homemade or low-sodium canned chicken broth

Step 3
1 lb garlic pork sausage or sweet Italian sausage
3-4 confit duck leg quarters (recipe on proceeding page)
1-1/2 cups homemade or low-sodium canned chicken broth

Step 4
1/4 cup tomato paste
additional chicken stock, if necessary
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs, finely grated
1/4 cup duck fat or olive oil

Method:
Step One
Soak beans in about 6 quarts of water for six to twelve hours. Drain beans and discard water. Place beans in a large pot (I use a 5-quart Le Creuset although a bigger pot would be better). Nestle the salt pork, pigskin, carrot, onion, garlic and bouquet garni into the beans. Cover with enough water to cover beans by about an inch. Bring beans to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer over low heat for one hour. Beans should be nearly cooked but totally intact.

Step Two
While beans are simmering, sauté onions over medium heat in 1 Tbsp of duck fat or olive oil (use the oil from making the confit) until transparent but not browned. Remove onions and reserve. Raise heat to medium-high and, working in batches, brown the pork shoulder and lamb until mahogany brown on all sides. Add onions back to pan with all browned meat. Add 1/2 cup chicken broth and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes.

Step 3
Put rack in lower middle of oven and preheat to 325 degrees.
Remove bouquet garni, carrot, and onion from beans. Don't worry if veggies break up a little. Nestle the browned pork and lamb, garlic sausage, and duck confit among the beans. Add 1-1/2 cups of chicken stock. Place pot over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Place pot in oven and bake for 1 hour. (Be careful as your pot will be hot and full!) Remove pot and cool enough to handle comfortably.

Step 4
Root around in the beans and remove all meats from the pan. Separately, remove beans and liquid to a large bowl. Untie pigskin roll (discard twine) and cut skin into small triangles. Cut lamb, pork shoulder, salt pork, confit (discard bones), and sausage into roughly similar size small pieces (don't worry about being too precise). Wipe out pot. Line the bottom and, to the extent possible, the sides of the pot with the triangles of pigskin. Scoop a layer of beans into bottom of pot and smooth with the back of a spoon. Scatter layer of combined meats-pork, lamb, duck etc-in layer on beans. Add layer of beans on top of meats to cover. Repeat process with meats then beans in layers until all ingredients are in the pot. Stir tomato paste into liquid remaining from beans and add to pot. Add additional chicken stock if necessary, so liquid just comes to top of beans. Spread breadcrumbs on top of bean mixture. Drizzle with duck fat or olive oil. Place into 325-degree oven, uncovered, and cook for 1-1/2 hours until top is nicely browned. Carefully remove pot from oven. Serve in the same pot, using a trivet on your dining room table. Be sure to warn guests that the dish is basically as hot as the surface of the sun.

Wine Suggestion: There's major depth of flavor going on here, so you need a wine that can hold its own. Try a Syrah-based wine that hails from the same region as the food (the Rhone Valley). We like one that has some funky, earthy qualities that match the delicious ruggedness of the dish. Example: Roger Perrin Cotes du Rhone Rouge, $14.99.

HONEY SOY GLAZED CHICKEN

I like to make this chicken in my charcoal kettle grill because the glaze picks up nice smoky notes. It is also delicious baked in the oven.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup local honey
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 Tbsp fresh ginger, peeled and minced (I use a microplane)
A few squirts of Tabasco sauce
3-4 pound chicken

Method:

Whisk together glaze (first seven ingredients) in a non-reactive bowl large enough to hold the chicken.

Pour half of glaze into a separate cup and reserve.

Place chicken in glaze in bowl and turn to coat.

Marinate under refrigeration for at least a half hour and as long as overnight.

Prepare medium charcoal fire or heat oven to 375 degrees.

Roast chicken, turning occasionally, and brushing with the reserved glaze.

When chicken is done-about 40 minutes-remove and let rest for 15 minutes.

Cut up chicken and serve with rice.

Wine Suggestion from Tracy: Since dishes with a level of sweetness-such as this honey glaze-make your wine seem drier than it really is, an off-dry wine balances the flavors nicely.
Example: Gunderloch Redstone Riesling $16.99

GINGERSNAP CRUSTED NANTUCKET FLUKE WITH PEAR COULIS

When Susan Fernald raved about this dish she had at Starlight Café in Nantucket I confess that, at first, I didn't even understand what she meant by "gingersnap fluke." And when I did, I thought it sounded downright weird. Boy was I wrong. The ginger, sweet, and acid deliciously offset one another. If you weren't told what they were, you wouldn't be able to place the flavors - but the results are excellent and really unique.

Starlight Café serves this over wild rice pilaf.

Ingredients:

5 ounces gingersnap cookies (about 20 cookies)
1/4 cup Japanese panko flakes
salt and pepper to taste
2 ripe pears, peeled and diced (try Crowe Farm in Sandwich)
1 Tbsp honey
4 Tbsp water
Vegetable oil for cooking
1 pound of local fluke or flounder filets

Method:

Place gingersnaps in a food processor and pulse until they form small crumbs.

Add the panko, and pulse until mixed thoroughly.

Season with salt and pepper.

Pour the crumb mixture into a cookie sheet for breading the filets, and reserve.

Place the pears, honey, and water in a small sauce pan, covered over medium-low heat until the pear is soft-about 15 minutes.

Put pears through a food mill or sieve them to a consistency slightly smoother than applesauce. Salt and pepper to taste.

Keep the pear coulis warm.

Meanwhile dredge the fish in the crumb mixture, pressing the crumbs lightly onto the fish, if necessary.

Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat until shimmering.

Add the fish, reduce heat to medium low, and cook for two minutes, monitoring heat to avoid burning the crust.

Flip the filet and cook through. This usually takes only a minute or two.

Serve with a spoonful of the warm pear coulis.

Wine suggestion from Tracy: A Cabernet Franc from the Loire was a surprising match for the fish. This bright and fruity red was right on with the sweetness of the gingersnaps and the flaky texture of the flounder.
Example: Marc Bredif Chinon $19.99

An elegant and creative dish from chef Toby Hill at Eldredge Room in Chatham that highlights fresh eggs (Toby uses Checkerberry Farm eggs from Orleans). Toby recommends Kelley's Katch Tennessee Paddle Fish Cavia, but we used inexpensive whitefish caviar from the supermarket and it was delicious. To find caviar locally, check with The Brown Jug in Sandwich (508-888-4669). They stock caviar from July through December and can order with a few days notice the rest of the year.

Ingredients:
2 tbsp white Balsamic vinegar (also available from The Brown Jug)
1 Tbsp salt

Hollandaise Sauce (per person)
2 egg yolks
2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar
2 tsp salt
1/4 lb melted unsalted butter
1 oz caviar

Finish Dish (per person)
1 large slice of brioche
1 tbsp plain white wine vinegar
Pinch of salt and black pepper
1 tsp Dijon mustard
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 cup fresh young arugula
1 large egg

Method:
Prepare poaching liquid for eggs by combining one quart of water with 2 Tbsp white balsamic vinegar and heat to just below a simmer. Keep liquid barely shimmering - around 175 degrees on a kitchen thermometer. In the meantime, heat 1 inch of water in a saucepan over medium low heat to a very low simmer.
Place metal bowl in saucepan so it is over, but not touching, water. Add desired number of egg yolks, 2 tbsp. white balsamic vinegar and salt. Over heat whisk eggs rapidly and constantly for about 5 minutes until they are frothy and the whisk briefly leaves track marks in the eggs. Don't overheat the eggs or they will scramble. Turn heat off and, with bowl still in saucepan, immediately start drizzling in butter while whisking the eggs. Start with droplets and continue to add butter slowly so sauce doesn't break. Continue, whisking constantly until butter is incorporated. Whisk in caviar, reserving a tiny bit for garnish. Keep warm for a few minutes while finishing the dish.

Grill or toast brioche.
Put plain white wine vinegar in bowl with, mustard, salt and pepper a and whisk a few times. Whisk in olive oil in driblets to create a dressing. Lightly dress arugula and add salt and pepper, if needed. Poach eggs in poaching liquid for about 4 minutes. Put brioche on plate and top with arugula then the poached egg.
Nap with hollandaise sauce and garnish with a bit of caviar.

This recipe was supplying by the Jamaican farm hands at Coonamessett Farm. It's a popular item at the farm's weekly Jamaica Night Buffets.

Ingredients:
1 lb flour
1/4 lb yellow cornmeal
1/2 cup sugar
1 tbsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt

Method:
Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Mix by hand with cold water to form a dough. Take small piece and roll between hands. Deep fry until golden brown or until they float. oil can not be too hot or too cold. Makes 18.

Cucumber Juice

Ingredients:
3 large cucumbers
1 large piece fresh ginger root
lemon or lime juice
sugar

Method:
Wash and chop cucumbers and ginger root. In a blender with water blend half the mixture then strain with fine strainer. Repeat with other half of the mixture and combine all in a large glass pitcher. Add lime juice and sugar to taste.
Chill well before serving.

Grilled Striped Bass with Summer Fruit Salsa

If possible, grill over lump hardwood charcoal as it imparts a nice smoky note to the fish but a gas grill or even and oven at 350 degrees works just fine.

Ingredients:
2 cups diced fruit such as peaches, nectarines or mango
2 Tbsp fresh cilantro, chopped
1 Tbsp purple onion, peeled, halved and sliced thin
3 fresh jalapeno peppers, seeded and diced
1 Tbsp lime juice
Drizzle of olive oil
Salt to taste
Fresh wild striped bass filet - about 6 oz per person
Lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
3 Tbsp of unsalted butter, cut into small pats
1/4 cup water
1/4 cup white wine

Method:
Toss salsa ingredients in a glass or plastic bowl (not aluminum). Check seasoning, adjust and allow flavors to blend for an hour
If you plan to hold longer refrigerate until ready to use but then allow to come to room temperature

Put lemon juice on fish and marinate in a plastic bag, refrigerated, for an hour or longer. Preheat gas grill or prepare a charcoal fire that is medium hot. Fashion large piece of aluminum foil into a rough tray. Remove fish from plastic bag place fish on foil. Place pats of butter on fish. Carefully place on grill. Pour water and wine in foil tray around fish. Close grill cover Check after 8 minutes or so and continue to cook, checking every minute until flesh just turns whitish - poke flesh with a paring knife to peek. Remove fish and place on platter or cut and place on individual plates. Spoon a little of the wine butter mixture in the foil over the fish
Serve surrounded by the fruit salsa.

Wine Suggestions:
Both a white and a red work well with this dish. If using the hardwood charcoal or wood chips, we recommend a crisp chardonnay that is full enough to balance the smokiness but not oak-y and overpowering. If you're not using wood charcoal a light earthy Pinot Noir is delicious. Examples: 2004 Trevor Jones Virgin Chardonnay, S.E. Australia $16.99; 2004 Hunterdon Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highlands, CA $18.99.

Provence-inspired Anise-Orange Cookies

Ingredients:
1 stick softened unsalted butter
1/2 cup sugar
2 tsp anise seeds, toasted
1/2 tsp pure anise extract
2 tsp freshly squeezed orange juice
2 tsp orange liqueur, such as Grand Marnier, Triple Sec or Cointreau
2 cups flour
pinch of salt
egg wash (1 egg, beaten with 1 tsp water)
pine nuts, for garnish

Method:
Cream together butter and sugar with an electric mixer. Gradually add in the orange juice, orange liqueur and anise extract. With a wooden spoon (or the dough hook attachment of a standing mixer) add salt, anise seeds and flour until a smooth, stiff dough forms. Shape dough into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1/2 hour. On a floured surface, roll dough to a thickness of 1/4 to 1/2 inch (thinner for crispier cookies; thicker for more "biscuit-y" cookies). Using a small round cookie cutter (a cleaned out can of tomato paste works great, too), cut circles and place on baking sheets lined with parchment or wax paper. Brush each cookie with egg wash and place a pine nut in the center. Bake at 375 for 12-15 minutes or until light golden brown.

Makes about 30 cookies. Will keep for 1 week in an airtight container.

Seared Scallop Salad with Fresh Fruit Vinaigrette

This is an adaptation of a recipe sent to us by Lisa Whelan owner of the Golden Clove Restaurant in Chatham. The recipe inspired us because of the creative combination of flavors and the use of ingredients that will be in season in late spring. If you'd like to try her original version it is on the menu at the Golden Clove at 155 Crowell Road in Chatham. You can reach them at 508 945-0028 or at www.thegoldenclove.com.

Makes 4 Salads

Ingredients:
1/2 cup fresh strawberries, stemmed
1/2 cup blackberries or raspberries
1/3 cups plus 2 Tsp. orange juices held separately
1/3 cups pineapple juice
2 Tbsp local honey
2 Tbsp Extra Virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp high quality red wine vinegar
Small handful of fresh mint leaves
Fresh mesclun greens washed and dried
1/2 Tsp. sugar
1/4 fresh pineapple cut in a wedge and then cut into thin triangles
1 medium red or sweet onion sliced into 1/8" rings
Good quality cooking oil such as canola
16 - 20 Local Chatham Sea or Bay Scallops with small abductor muscles removed

Method:
Vinaigrette
In food processor, combine all berries, juices, honey, mint and vinegar. Carefully process (machine will be fairly full) until smooth, Add olive oil and continue to process until combined. Put mixture through food mill or strainer to remove the seeds from the vinaigrette. Discard seeds. Taste and add salt and pepper.

Caramelized Pineapple
Heat small non-stick skillet over medium high heat for 1 minute. Add 2 Tsp orange juice and sugar. Heat, stirring until sugar melts and starts to make big bubbles. Add pineapple and stir gently in sugar mixture until chunks are nicely caramelized. This should take less than a minute. Remove and reserve pineapple pieces.

Seared Scallops
Heat another heavy sauté pan on high heat for 2 minutes. Dry scallops with paper towels. Sprinkle salt and grind pepper on scallops. Add a small amount of oil to pan - it should shimmer if pan is hot enough. Working quickly, add scallops to pan pressing down lightly on each to press surface into pan. After about one to two minutes turn scallops onto other side and cook for one minute more. Scallops should be nicely browned and still translucent inside. Remove scallops and hold on a warm plate.

Assemble Salad
Toss greens in bowl with vinaigrette (reserving a little to drizzle) to lightly cover leaves. Place greens on salad plates. Garnish with scallops, onion rings and caramelized onions. Drizzle with remaining vinaigrette. Serve while scallops are still warm.

Wine Suggestion:
Scallops on their own are quite rich, so we usually recommend a bigger wine, such as a California Chardonnay. In this dish, however, the scallops are balanced by the subtle acidity in the vinaigrette. A dry Australian Riesling -- with bold fruit and a zippy finish -- was just great with the dish. Example: Annie's Lane Riesling, $13.99.