HONEY LOVE

by Elizabeth White

photographs, Elizabeth White & Doug Langeland

Honey is one of those things: the more you learn about it, the more you love it. And the same goes for beekeeping, attests amateur beekeeper Steve Junker, "It's like the gospel, you just want to spread the good word." Steve and his wife Jenny started keeping bees on their Woods Hole property after attending bee school through the Barnstable County Beekeepers Association (BCBA) three years ago. "We're definitely not pros," Steve says heading to the backyard. "In the end the nicest thing about beekeeping is you don't have to fuss about them too much, in fact, I think they prefer if you don't fuss with them."

All the fussing is left to the bees, whose meticulous non-stop attention to their hive Steve delights in pondering. "We love to see the bees working, we love to visit the bees, and of course, we love the honey." Last year the Junkers harvested a total of 45 lbs. of honey from two hives. The first harvest in mid-summer yields a sweet, light-colored honey; the fall crop is darker with a more complex taste. The difference reflects the major flora in bloom at the time nectar is collected-holly, linden, and black locust trees in the spring and summer; sweet pepper bush and golden rod into the autumn.

Here's how it works. All day the bees zoom to and from the hive in search of blossoms. When they spot a good flower they extract its nectar and carry it back to the hive in their bellies. Then they excrete the nectar-enriched with enzymes from the bee's body-into honeycomb cells constructed beforehand. When enough moisture has evaporated from the watery nectar, the bees cap the cell with more wax. Honey is capped nectar. Nectar will ferment, but honey keeps for ages.

Twice a season Steve and Jenny get together with other local amateurs for an extracting party. After scrapping the caps off the cells, the beekeepers take turns at a communal spinner that whirs the honey out of the comb by centripetal force. "It's kind of an event," says Steve, "everyone's covered in honey."

Like Steve and Jenny, Ed and Betty Osmun of E&T Farms in West Barnstable started with two hives. Now they have two hundred. "Well, our first expansion was to put some [hives] at my grandmother's," recalls Ed. Then a bee-keeping friend retired and the Osmuns found themselves in charge of eighty hives. That was five years ago and the Osmuns were hooked. "The whole working of the hive is fascinating; how it has it's own order," Ed explains. Betty nods in agreement, "You get mesmerized just watching them."

Betty and Ed Osmun pointing out the queen bee at the Mid-Cape Farmers' Market.

Cranberry farmers across the Cape pay Ed and Betty to keep bees near their bogs because bees also pollinate the flowers they're collecting nectar from. Betty estimates their bees increase a bog's yields by 20%-30%. According to a 2000 study from Cornell University, the increased yield and quality of agricultural crops as a result of honeybee pollination is valued at more than $14.6 billion per year. Half of all full-time beekeepers in the US are migratory, traveling to where crops are in bloom. An estimated 1,000,000 bee colonies are needed just to pollinate the California almond crop. The Osmuns are classified as a "side-line" operation, less than commercial but more than a hobby.

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With the bees occupied, Ed lifts the lid off the top shallow box. Inside are a series of vertical honeycomb frames. Ed pulls one up to inspect progress. The bees keep right on working. "You just have to be gentle," says Ed, "these girls are pretty quiet." "It's the girls that do all the work," Ed explains, "[the males] don't do anything." That's not entirely true; but their duties are restricted to a collective mating flight with the queen once a year, after which they die.

Enough cells are full that Ed adds another shallow to the stack. "If you just pile a bunch [of shallows] on, they chimney" says Ed, "which means they just shoot up the center." And you want the bees to fill out each frame completely, so you don't have to spin more frames for the same amount of honey. As he puts the hive back together, Ed accidentally smushes a bee between the edge of the shallows. "You try and be careful," he shrugs, "but when you're dealing with 40,000 bees [the amount in each hive] it happens."

Cape Cod beekeepers are a well-organized lot. The Barnstable Country Beekeepers Association (BCBA) meets once a month to socialize and discuss hive management. Keeping hives mite free is a common topic. The wild bee population in the US has been devastated by the varroa mite, which first appeared in Florida in the mid-1980s. With fewer feral bees around, domestic bees play an ever more integral part in plant pollination. BCBA board member Andy Morris, says this makes "[beekeepers] feel they're helping the environment, which they are." In that same spirit, the BCBA educates members how to guard their hives against mites without the use of insecticides. For example, mites like to infest drone larvae cells; so a beekeeper can cut down on mites by removing the frames with drone larvae cells and putting them in the freezer for a couple hours.

Members also had to make a collective decision about what to call their honey. Since you don't know for sure which plants the bees have visited (unlike in large mono-crop fields in the mid-West), everyone agreed to classify their honey as "wildflower" honey. "But that's kinda boring if everyone's got the same thing," Andy smiles, "so I just decided why not 'Free Range Honey'?"

For more information on beekeeping on Cape Cod visit the BCBA's website at www.barnstablebeekeepers.org

NANTUCKET, REVISITED

by Susan Fernald

All & Andrea Kovalencik of Company of the Cauldron

Dann Pronk selling his Lobsters on Main.

Nowadays, Nantucket is far removed from the days when farms dotted her landscape and whaling ships, her harbor. The current drift is summer homes larger than the wealthiest ship's captains built, private gardens rivaling 19th century farms in magnitude and manpower, and boats in the harbor costing much more than an entire whaling fleet! But farmers and fishermen are thriving, restaurants are thinking locally, and an ever-evolving brewery/ winery/distillery is an integral part of the scene. Creativity, collaboration, and entrepreneurship are the 'mainstays' of surviving in the upscale Nantucket scene. On a recent trip, I discovered a wealth of fresh-caught seafood, organic produce, and local libations.

First stop, Main Street, where two farm trucks dispense local produce each morning. Bartlett's Farm truck sells fresh vegetables and cut flowers, and Nantucket Wildflower Farms sells cut flowers and pots of perennials and herbs. At 1:00 PM on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, Dann Pronk takes Wildflower Farms' spot and sells "Lobsters on Main" from his truck. It took him several years to get local and state permits to sell there, which is why it has been many so years since fresh seafood was sold in town. Dann starts his day at 4:30 AM checking enough of his 600 traps to yield 140-150 pounds a day. "Sunny day sales aren't so good, rainy days are best, and Mondays are slowest," Dann notes. But on Fridays, he has to call someone to bring down more lobsters from his stock. His lobsters are only several hours out of the water by the time people buy them and the word is getting around. Dann enjoys meeting and talking to folks and likes giving people a better price through direct sales. In the off-season he is an on-call EMT, but hopes supply and demand enable him to sell his lobsters well into September.

Jim Warwick is the owner of Capron Lighting & Sound and the go-to guy on Nantucket for summer fundraisers and parties. He and his wife Ruth saw Nantucket was in danger of losing its only year-round movie theatre several years ago and grabbed the chance to preserve an important aspect of local life. I stopped there to see Jim and Ruth and lunch on a crisply, and uniquely, interpreted Cuban Egg Roll and cool slices of fresh-caught, vanilla-seared tuna. "I started looking at this place 15 or 18 years ago as a fun place to own, and it finally came to fruition three years ago when I got a call from Rob, the former owner. We're having fun with a great staff, great food, great friends," enthused Jim. Chef Jennifer Farmer gives a great local twist to a traditional comfort food with her signature Lobster Mac & Cheese: fresh lobster meat, peas, and wild mushrooms tossed with penne pasta in a "secret" sauce." They purchase local produce, local fish and lobster, and grow many of their own herbs in a snuggled-in "town garden" across the street from the restaurant and offer nightly specials inspired by Cisco Brewery/Triple Eight products.

When they harvest the grapes that entwine the overhead patio lattice Jim plans on making grape-infused Triple Eight vodka; Jenn will use the grapes for sauces and vinegars, and the grape leaves for some yet-to-be-determined dish. Starlight has been the number one server of Cisco Brewers on tap in the world! Starlight Café displays the work of local artists on their walls and local musicians play on their patio most evenings. Jim and Ruth are confident that the atmosphere, the food, and a new wood stove will bring in their regulars this winter.

Even Keel Café is one of only two restaurants on Main Street (not counting the two drugstores where, as a kid, I had Devil Dogs and flavored Cokes) that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They use local vegetables from Bartlett's Farm, local seafood as the season determines, and all of Cisco and Triple 8 products. When asked about his herbs, owner Marshall Thompson quipped, "We grow our herbs, by the seaside." Hmmmmm, I may have to check into this further! Shaun Riley, the chef, uses Cisco Brewery's Moors Porter for their tasty braised short ribs and the Hurricane Rum in their standout Hurricane Rum French Toast. Other popular breakfast items are the lobster eggs benedict (oh yeah!), Liz's Huevos Rancheros, and the Island's "biggest and best breakfast burrito."

No visit to the Island is complete without a trip to the bustling Triple Eight Distillery/Nantucket Vineyard wine and Cisco Brewers beer tastings. Since their products are interwoven throughout this article it is time I introduce you. A brewery visit gives a classic "taste" of Nantucket culture including obligatory white lab, pit stops by chefs, ex-employees, honeymooners, and, always, old friends.

In 1981, Melissa and Dean Long of Nantucket Vineyards started with grapes grown on their land, but they were dissatisfied with the Nantucket soil-too sandy, summers just a little too cool. Now they search the country to buy the best grapes in a given year for fall blending and bottling: champagne grapes from Rhode Island, others from Oregon and Washington. A favorite is "Prodeano" a Prosecco named after reserved vintner Dean, much to his chagrin. In 1995, Cisco Brewery was born, and Wendy and Randy Hudson joined the family. Triple Eight distillery, established in 2000 and named after the well number of its water source, brought Jay Harman on board as the creative thinker and last cog in the wheel. They have added flavored cranberry and orange Triple Eight Vodkas, Hurricane Rum, Gale Force Gin, and Notch (as in Not Scotch or Nantucket Scotch ) which is gently aged until the first barrels can be bottled in seven or eight years. Each year they tap into the oldest barrel for the whiskey dinner at the Company of the Cauldron. Jay says, "Our two signature beers, Whales Tail Pale Ale and Sankaty Light, are served at every restaurant and bar on the island, save one, and that's another story."

When I stopped by, Jay was excitedly unwrapping the new refrigeration for the White Elephant's "make your own Bloody Mary bar" that he and his partners provide special blended vodkas for, such as scotch bonnet, peppercorn, and jalapeno. Triple Eight Distillery's 4th Annual 8/8 @ 8pm Island-wide 888 Vodka Toast this year will include restaurants and liquor stores throughout the east coast. Eighty-eight establishments will participate this year!

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At the Company of the Cauldron, All Kovalencik, owner and chef, and his wife Andrea pride themselves on their use of local purveyors. "The nice thing about the Company of the Cauldron is that 40 seats is small enough to use local purveyors who don't grow a huge amount. My menu changes daily and 'seasonal' is a key part of the restaurant," All explains. Currently he's using chai flowers in his salads, gathering wild (is there any other?) dandelion and burdock root, and utilizing fresh Nantucket day boat scallops (in a risotto), and local summer flounder. "Lobster 4 Ways" was on their exquisitely prepared prix fixe menu: Lobster Bisque with sweet sherry and fresh thyme, roasted lobster, mushroom, and baby arugula salad, steamed & grilled lobster with ginger mustard (3) and tarragon butter (4), and warm new potato salad. Dessert was ginger scones topped with fresh strawberries and cinnamon cream. Also on the menu this week is Cisco Brewer's Stout-marinated filet mignon and Bartlett Farm tomatoes served with lump crabmeat. All is looking forward to their annual "Notch" whiskey dinner in August when they tap into the oldest barrel for checks on quality and aging.

I tried to follow up on the guy that All used to buy local mushrooms from, but he hasn't seen him this year and no one else seemed to recall seeing him either. Unfortunate, as he was apparently a terrific, if random, source of fresh-picked mushrooms. Elin Anderwald grows many of All's herbs, those he doesn't grow himself, and many of his organic lettuces. Elin gave me a tour of her meandering garden where I learned that her rosemary plants are nearly 30 years old and so mature that All uses the branches for skewers. Her extensive gardens have something for every season: fall sage, spring chive flowers, lavender for lamb garnishes, nasturtiums for salads, fennel, chocolate mint, even honey, and she has planted a patch of rhubarb to be harvested next year for All's desserts.

Moors End Farm, on Polpis Road, produces a much smaller bounty but does it organically, with the exception of corn. When I asked about the corn and this wet weather, owner Sue Slosek, said "The corn is above my knee…and it's a long knee; but it's a terrible year for insects. Without spraying there would be NO corn at all!" It is a small family-owned farm, where the parents, son, daughter, and of course white labs, are all intimately involved. They have lovely bunches of reasonably-priced fresh flowers and annuals, perennials, and vegetables in pots for planting. The Sloseks sell vegetables to Annye's Whole Foods, the local health food store, and Sfoglia, an Italian trattorria known for inventive fare, fresh bread, and an eclectic dining room reminiscent of Sunday dinners at nonna's.

Cinda Gaynor, of the Gardens at Wildflower Farms, serves tea on Thursdays at her magical Gardens on true 16th century French faience pottery. She doesn't grow herbs and vegetables for individual sale, though potted herbs are available. However, The Gardens are so enchanting I feel compelled to state that no trip to Nantucket or mention of local gardens is complete without a trip for 'Tea' at Cinda's.

Last stop, a new restaurant, Water Street, where "helping to support small sustainable farms everywhere" is part of their mission and confirmed on the menu by both word and fare. Everyone asked me if I had been there yet, so there I went! Owners Amy Hauser Nelson, husband Robert, and Mallory and Jason Carroll, and baker Robert Boswell came together from different local eateries, "Like the sorting hat in a Harry Potter movie," according to Amy. Their vision resulted in a restaurant that serves dishes comprised of the freshest, natural-grown ingredients with no chemical or genetic alterations. They are excited by the reception Water Street has received from the community. They use produce, fresh seafood, and Cisco/Triple Eight product. They have a bakery, Dough Hook, next door that also sells retail. Amy's sister owns an organic farm in Mattapoisett, but presently Patty Myers, provides baby vegetables, new lettuces, fennel, shell peas, and herbs, as well as an abundant array of tomatoes to their chef. Patty sells her organic produce to Annye's Whole Foods and several small restaurants.

I was surprised to discover a, new-to-me, local fish: fluke, or summer flounder. It's a fish with a short season and is highly regulated. Each of the 4-8 boats, described as 'baby draggers', can only fish up to 300 pounds a day. Summer flounder was on everyone's menu. I had it for lunch, prepared at Le Languedoc Inn & Bistro with an incredibly light cream sauce and fresh mushrooms. At Starlight Café it was on the dinner menu with a gingersnap crust and pear coulis (oh, so little time). Water Street prepared it as sashimi with chili oil, arugula puree, cilantro, and nori dust as an appetizer and reinterpreted it for dinner with mustard spaetzel, sunchoke puree, and sautéed broccoli rabe.

Nantucket striped bass, a fish most people have a long acquaintance with, deserves a mention. At Company of the Cauldron it was done crisply and served over sunchoke puree with wilted baby spinach and a saffron-citronette sauce. At Le Languedoc it was brushed with grapefruit butter sauce and served with green tomatoes.

It was great fun to discover how creative and 'local' (when local can ONLY mean 10 miles away) Island restaurateurs and chefs are being. Will I now choose my visits back by vegetable season (root or fresh) or seafood (fluke or bay scallop)? That remains to be seen! However, appreciative inquiry about the origin of ingredients, at both new and favorite restaurants, will now accompany my routine questions on preparations and daily specials.