Andre shucking clams for chowder

DINNER WITH ANDRE
Eating Locally and Living Well

By Doug Langeland

ome people - through a combination of knowledge, skill, and a willingness to share - are an inspiration to others. When it comes to eating well from what grows, swims, grazes, and flys on Cape Cod, Andre Sampou is definitely an inspiration to many.

Andre is involved in just about every aspect of local food. Among other things, he is a: Barnstable Shellfish Committee member, founding member of the Barnstable Association of Recreational Shellfishing (BARS), leader in the local chapter of Ducks Unlimited (hunters supporting wetlands preservation), farmer, shepherd, fisherman, shellfisher, hunter, and great cook.

Andre also loves to share his enthusiasm for these topics and to get others involved in harvesting their own food from the local bounty. I first appreciated how Andre inspires others when I started shellfishing as a member of BARS. I enjoyed standing near him in the water as he shared raking tips and oyster recipes. I noticed again when local fishermen and hunters kept referring me to him to get "how to" information about equipment or where to find good fishing charters. I recognized the attention he commanded when he spoke about access to waters issues at local meetings. I also observed the rave reviews his smoked bluefish pate received when he brought it to a potluck dinner. "I caught it, I smoked it, I made it, and now I am eating it," Andre is fond of saying. Wanting to learn more about the man who appears to inspire a passion for local food in so many others, I asked to sit down with him and learn first hand about his background.

Andre was born in Chicago in 1931. He went to Lane Tech, a technical high school, which prepared him for M.I.T., where he studied mechanical engineering. He and his wife Elsa (they recently celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary) raised two boys and three girls and have lived over the years in Detroit, Westport, Connecticut, and Sherborn, Massachusetts. At the time he retired from corporate life, Andre was a vice president at Instron, a company that made materials testing equipment.

Being close to good hunting and fishing have always played a role in where the Sampous chose to live. So in the early 1980s when Andre started looking for places to retire, proximity to good fishing, hunting and shellfishing sites was key. Over the years, Andre and Elsa fell in love with the Cape, where he used to come for weekend jaunts to fish and hunt each fall. "The wetlands around Barnstable are excellent for hunting," Andre emphasizes. In 1985 they bought a small farm in West Barnstable where they moved permanently in 1987.

TOWARD FOOD SELF SUFFICIENCY: FARMING, FISHING, AND HUNTING

The Sampou property is an old farm started in 1780 by Mathias Smith. It comprises six acres, two houses, and several barns and outbuildings. Andre's son Pete and his family currently live in the back house.

The farm has supported livestock for centuries leaving the land very fertile and the Sampous have continued to maintain it as a working farm. When they acquired the property from the previous owner, the Sampous inherted a small flock of sheep; Andre still raises a handful of lambs each year, which he sells as meat to friends and neighbors. The sheep winter in a barn out back and provide great fertilizer for the garden. Pete Sampou raises chickens for eggs and meat.

The farm also has a huge asparagus bed that is still thriving more than 20 years after being planted. Andre claims that he harvests more than 160 spears daily for extended periods and he and Elsa "eat it 'til we're sick of it". A new favorite recipe they discovered this spring is wrapping the spears in prosciutto and roasting at 375 degrees then sprinkling with Parmesan cheese.

For years Andre set up a small self-service vegetable stand in front of their house. Despite warnings from friends that the honor system would not work, most customers were honest and paid in full for the produce. Andre now encourages his grandchildren to maintain a connection to the farm by having them pick vegetables for the stand to earn pocket money.

Andre and son Peter go fishing as often as possible. They typically go out of Barnstable Harbor for two hours at a stretch, setting out 30 minutes before dawn. They will spin until they find their quarry, and then fly fish from the bow platform they built on their 16' Starcraft skiff. According to Andre, fishing that way is very productive. But he confesses another reason for going out when they do: "Watching the sun come up over the east end of Barnstable Harbor always does me good".

Andre's father started him hunting and fishing when he was only six years old by having him help hunt and clean squirrels. Andre has hunted for most of his life and still hunts with Peter. Andre says that being a good cook is an integral part of hunting. For example, he likes to hunt sea ducks which many people consider inedible. But since he refuses to hunt for things that he won't eat Andre has developed recipes that make the meat highly palatable. One example is duck fondue using marinated breast meat. "People love it, they think it's venison," Andre chuckles.

Andre admits to being dismayed in the decline in the popularity of hunting. "For some reason it has become less popular, especially with young people. I really want my 12 grandchildren to hunt but, while they all fish, only my son Mike's three boys show any interest in hunting." Andre feels that this may be due to stigma associated with guns, and with people being squeamish about knowing where their food comes from.

Andre and his sheep

TAKING ACTION: COMMUNITY INVOLVEMENT PRESERVES A WAY OF LIFE

When Andre contemplates the declining popularity of hunting, he sees common themes that are also contributing to the decline in farming and, to a lesser extent, fishing and shellfishing. Development is reducing farmland, access to the water, and suitable hunting grounds. For example, Andre has observed that in the midst of a new housing development, the public ways to water will suddenly have rocks making passage impossible. Piers make it difficult for hunters and shellfishers to traverse beaches. Pollution destroys eel grass and sediments that are necessary for healthy shellfish and waterfowl habitats.

Given his passions Andre wants to have an influence on how development unfolds on Cape Cod. Accordingly, he devotes a lot of time to public issues about protecting wetlands and ways to water. He is a member of the Barnstable Shellfish Committee that advises and testifies to town conservation officials on issues related to commercial and amateur shellfishing. When he observed that amateur shellfishermen needed a voice in town affairs, he worked with a group of likeminded people and helped with the formation of BARS which now boasts over 150 members who are advocates for reduced pollution and maintenance of ways to water. Also, Andre has served as chairman of the Cape Cod chapter of Ducks Unlimited, one of the largest wildlife conservation organizations in the world, which over many years has raised billions of dollars to preserve wetlands. Andre also frequently writes newspaper op-ed pieces and organizes research and testimony to inform town officials about preservation issues.

EATING LOCALLY AND LIVING WELL

Andre feels strongly that by eating locally, he and Elsa dine in a very delicious, healthy, and self-sufficient manner. They do not eat a lot of beef, but their freezer is packed with lamb and chicken from their farm, fish that Andre has caught, and game and duck Andre has hunted. They make and freeze chowder bases from clams he has raked. Andre blanches and freezes asparagus, which they eat all year. The Sampou's are well known for giving friends packages of food all year around.

So keep your eyes and ears open. If you hunt or fish or love farm-fresh produce, it is likely you will run into Andre, and, after spending some time with him, you will be inspired as well.

ELSA'S MUSSELS

This is Andre's wife's favorite recipe for mussels. Rich and classic, it uses a French technique for thickening sauces at the last minute by mixing flour and softened butter together to make a beurre manié. It's a great trick to have up your sleeve when you have a sauce that is too thin.

Ingredients:
2 Tbsp. flour
5 Tbsp unsalted butter, softened
2 cloves garlic, chopped
4 Tbsp onion, chopped
2 bay leaves
3-4 dozen mussels, debearded and scrubbed
1-1/2 cup white wine or dry white French vermouth
3/4 cup heavy cream
4 Tbsp Dijon mustard
2 egg yokes, lightly beaten

Method:
In a small bowl blend flour and 3 Tbsp butter together with a fork until smooth.
Melt remaining 2 Tbsp butter over medium high heat in a heavy-bottom sauté pan with lid that fits tightly. Add garlic, onion, and bay leaf and cook, stirring for a few minutes. Add white wine and bring to a boil.

Add mussels, cover and cook until shells open. Check after about 5 minutes. Remove mussels from liquid with slotted spoon and place in a bowl.
Bring liquid to a boil then take off heat. Quickly add the flour and butter mixture and put back on the heat; whisking constantly, bring mixture to a boil-it will thicken.
Cook for another minute or two to cook out the raw taste of the flour. Reduce heat to low. Add cream, mustard, and egg yokes. Heat to warm, stirring constantly. Don't bring back the boil, or the eggs might curdle!

Pour sauce over mussels.

Wine Suggestion from Tracy:

The sauce is classically French, so we tried a several French white Burgundies. A leaner, more mineraly-style was the clear winner. Go for a Chardonnay from the Macon region, or even an unoaked chardonnay from California or Australia.

Example: Domaine Talmard Macon Chardonnay (France) $15.99

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Todd Marcus with a canoe paddle he customized to better mix his mash

CAPE COD BEER: BUILDING A LOCAL BRAND
One Raving Fan at a Time

By Dianne Langeland

onfession: I am no great aficionado of beer. When it comes to describing the flavor of a beer, my adjectives typically have been limited to "crisp", or "refreshing". But when Todd Marcus, brewmaster of Cape Cod Beer, poured me a fresh glass of his Porter straight from the tank, the first word that came out of my mouth was "yummy". This assessment was echoed by the steady stream of faithful customers and microbrew fans that joined us in his brewery the Friday in October that it was first ready for consumption. Observing Todd meet and greet his clients, refill growlers (64 oz. jugs), and dispense advice and supplies to homebrewers, it was palpably clear that he was a man happy in his work.

Originally from outside of Boston, Todd graduated from Northeastern University in 1991 with a degree in electrical engineering. He began brewing beer at home for personal consumption, but never thought about turning his hobby into his vocation until one night in 1995 when a co-worker, whose family made beer accessories, invited him to a brewers' dinner at Redbones Barbecue in Somerville. Surrounded by fellow "beer geeks", Todd had an epiphany-he wanted to be a brew master and create his own brand of micro beer.

The very next day Todd started looking for employment in a microbrewery. He quickly scored a job brewing and doing cellar work (think filtering and fermentation) at Long Trail Brewery in Vermont, where he began to understand the challenges in brewing beer for distribution. This job was followed by a season at Sunday River Brewing Company in Maine, where he fully enjoyed the creativity that comes with brewing small batches of beer in an brewpub environment.

With solid credentials under his belt, Todd began looking for an opportunity to be a head brewer. That chance came at John Harvard's Brew House in Springfield, Pennsylvania just outside of Philadelphia, where Todd and his wife Beth moved the day after their wedding in 1997. "Phili was my opportunity to really spread my wings", said Todd. "We built out that brewery from the ground up - and I was an integral part of the day-to-day operations of the restaurant/pub."

Given that John Harvard's is part of a chain of brewpubs, Todd met other brewers from the other stores, and traveled to several of the national brewers' conferences and competitions. While working for John Harvard's Brew House, Todd won a Silver Medal at the Real Ale Festival in Chicago for his IPA (India Pale Ale) recipe.

In 1998 after the birth of their first child Jacob, Beth and Todd decided they wanted to be closer to their families in Massachusetts. While attending the Great American Beer Festival in Denver that year, Todd learned that Hyannisport Brewing Company (HBC) in Hyannis was hiring. One phone call and two interviews later, Todd had a new job, and a new place to call home. For five years, Todd was the sole person responsible for the production of beer at the HBC, which typically included as many at eight different style of beer on tap at any one time. Over the years, the business was sold, and management changed, but Todd's beer continued to flow, gaining devotees both local and from off Cape.

Todd & Beth celebrate the first anniversary of Cape Cod Beer

During that same time, the only local homebrew shop on Cape Cod closed its doors. Homebrewers, who had begun to seek out Todd for advice on recipe formulation and technical assistance, where now asking him to purchase supplies on their behalf. At this point Todd became more involved with the local homebrew club, The Cape Cod Lager and Ale Makers (CCLAMs) and also started a small business called Cape Cod Homebrew Supply.

"Homebrewers are great!", enthuses Todd. "They have such a passion for beer that they want to make it from scratch themselves. In this day and age, that says something about a person. Especially with so many great beers on the shelf of the local liquor stores." For many years Todd hosted the CCLAMS at the Hyport, and participated actively with the club, running educational programs, and even hosting a "big brew" where the club members came to the Hyport to brew on Todd's 7-barrel (217 gallon) system.

When the opportunity to branch out on his own came at the end of 2003, Todd felt he was ready to create his own brand, and began writing a business plan. Over the years he had gleaned a lot of knowledge and experience. He and Beth had toured literally hundreds of breweries. And Cape Cod appeared to be a good potential market; there was no existing brewery on the Cape, and Cape Cod as a brand had some traction. Visitors and local consumers had demonstrated a willingness to buy and support local products, even to the extent of paying a small premium to support a Cape-based business. And the homebrewers were all very eager to help spread the word.

Todd's biggest concern was whether the timing was wrong; were microbreweries just a passing fad that had run its course? Todd believed that many people who had created microbreweries were entrepreneurs without a passion for the product. On the other hand, he and Beth really liked beer and he really enjoyed brewing it. As Todd puts it, "I take great pleasure in the fact that four humble ingredients-malt, water, hops, and yeast-can be combined to yield an endless variety of flavors." To better hone his business plan Todd got a job with a local company that cleaned draft beer lines at retail outlets. He took over 12 accounts, which provided him the opportunity to meet restaurant owners and managers, and learn more about the local beer-drinking market. Todd reviewed his business plan with some of his clients, who helped him refine his goals and objectives. According to Todd, brand recognition became his first, second, and third priority. This reprioritization has served to guide his business decisions from the start.

Taking advantage of extra capacity at the Hyport to test the viability of starting his own business with very low overhead, Todd launched, in April 2004, Cape Cod Beer, selling two brews: Cape Cod Red and Cape Cod IPA on draft to retail accounts. Since he was doing all the brewing and distribution by himself, Todd had to be as effective as possible with his time. Thus he decided to build his business concentrically, focusing on restaurants and bars physically close to his brewery. By the end of that first summer, Cape Cod Beer was on tap in 12 restaurants.

While he was building his restaurant client roster, Todd also began selling growlers directly to consumers. For a couple of hours each Friday afternoon and Saturday morning, fans of fresh, local beer would steadily stream through the doors of the Hyport Brewery looking to refill their growlers with Red, IPA, or the specialty brew of the season.

Soon Todd was filling 60-80 growlers a week, distributing the beer, and scouting out new accounts. At the time he was a "one man band", but when things overlapped, several of the local homebrewers were ready willing and able to help-either by "minding the store", helping with deliveries, or talking up the beer at their favorite watering hole. One such person who showed great interest in the business was Brian Flagg, whom Todd had met through the homebrewers club. Brian helped out by washing kegs and eventually became a full-time employee in April of 2005. Having Brian handle much of the production has taken some pressure off Todd, who had been putting in 80-90 hours a week in the brewery and in the field delivering kegs and cleaning draft lines. Now Todd is able to focus most of his energy on managing and expanding his accounts.

Cape Cod Beer fans toast brewmaster Todd Marcus

Todd believes having personal relationships with all his customers-homebrewers, retail accounts, those who purchase Cape Cod beer for consumption at home-is critical to the success of his business. He spends as much face-time as possible with the owners, bartenders, and servers of each of his accounts educating them about his beer so that they, in turn, are educated advocates. Todd also continues to repair and maintain tap lines as part of his service to retail accounts. And Beth helps Todd maintain a dialogue with his customers As marketing guru for Cape Cod Beer, she produces a steady stream of press releases and email newsletters and frequently updates the content-rich Cape Cod Beer website (capecodbeer.com).

Another key component of Todd's business plan is being actively involved in his community. Beth is assistant director of the Barnstable Land Trust (BLT), a nonprofit organization whose core mission is to acquire and protect natural resources in the town of Barnstable for future generations. Todd can frequently be found pouring Cape Cod Beer at BLT events as well as at many chambers of commerce, local library, and United Way functions. The Marcus's also support their customers in their philanthropic activities, providing product or offering retail goods and services such as hats and coolers, growlers, brewery tours, and tastings. Cape Cod Beer also makes every effort to reduce the impact of their industrial process through ecologically sound practices like offering their product in reusable containers, composting spent grains, and minimizing water waste.

By the end of the summer of 2005, Cape Cod Beer was on 50 taps in restaurants and bars from Sandwich and Falmouth on the Upper Cape to Harwich Port and Brewster in the Mid-Cape, and growing weekly. There is still a steady stream of customers who go directly to the brewery for their weekly "fill". Growlers are also available at several liquor stores (check capecodbeer.com for current location). And this winter they will be hand filling their beer in 22-oz. bottles for restaurants that don't have taps. Eventually Todd plans to bottle Cape Cod Beer for wider distribution.
The homebrewers and other supportive friends continue to be the "raving fans" that every small business would love to have. "We've been overwhelmed by the support of the local community. You can't imagine how it feels when someone tells you that they will only eat at places that serve our beer. And we've heard that more than once." admitted Todd, seeming almost impressed himself. "We try to take good care of these 'raving fans' by keeping close contact via our website/newsletter and getting involved with "fun things". For example, last year we had a first anniversary party, which only our email newsletter subscribers were invited to. They all seemed very pleased about that-and that's exactly what we wanted. We try not to take their dedication lightly. It's meant a lot to us and our business."

These days Todd and Beth are focusing their energy on moving Cape Cod Beer into a larger brewery that can accommodate the increased demand for their product. The new larger space will allow them to maintain a wider inventory of home brew supplies, host beer tastings, and extend their retail hours. They anticipate opening the doors to their new facility in the early spring of 2006 near the corner of Phinney's Lane and Attuck Lane in Barnstable. Until then, you can always find them at capecodbeer.com.

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Island Merchant owners Bev & Joe Dunn.

EATING ALONG MAIN STREET, HYANNIS
So Many Options, So Little Time

By Doug and Dianne Langeland

ver the course of the summer we were in downtown Hyannis every Wednesday morning for the Mid-Cape Farmers' Market. The market ended at noon, so we developed the habit of trying different restaurants along Main Street for lunch each week. We observed how nice downtown Hyannis looks with its new crosswalks, light fixtures, trees, planters, and the Walkway to the Sea. We also noticed how many restaurants were open for lunch; many with outside seating during the warm weather.

We were anxious to explore the downtown restaurant scene more thoroughly. Together with Cynthia Cole, Executive Director of the Hyannis Downtown Business Improvement District-and the woman responsible for overseeing the rehabilitation of downtown Hyannis-we hatched the idea of "eating our way along Main Street", and invited her husband Isaac Rosen to join us. The idea was that the four of us would ask chefs and owners from as many restaurants as possible to recommend their best dishes, ask for recipes, test them, and then tell you, dear readers, about our experiences. Trying to find a block of time for four busy people to get together turned out to be more difficult than we imagined. And so it came to pass that we only had eight days before our production deadline in which to complete the task. (Despite the fact that we only publish quarterly, we always seem to be under deadline.) Nevertheless, Cynthia and Isaac rose to the challenge.

One of the hardest parts was to decide which restaurants to start with-there are so many that we wanted to try and we couldn't possibly eat at them all and write about them in one issue. Cynthia pointed out the ethnic diversity available at restaurants in Hyannis, so we chose six restaurants that represent considerable ethnic and price range. Remember that this is a starting point and that there are a lot more restaurants to visit. To help readers get started we've compiled a more complete list of the establishments in downtown Hyannis at the end of the article.

Island Merchant: Thursday dinner number one

We were raring to get started, despite having noshed at a reception at the new Maritime Museum (a wonderful spot to spend a rainy hour or two). First stop: the Island Merchant, where we had been before for a killer Cuban pork sandwich, but didn't know what else to expect. Owners Joe and Bev Dunn serve us some rich red zinfandel and innovative dishes that Joe "whipped up" in the restaurant's two tiny kitchens.

We start with dainty cups of the Caribbean pumpkin bisque with roasted corn crème fraiche. Smooth and spicy, the bisque has a nice thick consistency, all the more remarkable since Joe uses no added starch. The soup is followed by pan-seared day-boat scallops with roasted pumpkin seeds and lardons of bacon, all glazed with a maple syrup and clover honey mixture. The smoky richness of the bacon plays nicely against the fresh scallops and sweet glaze. Next Bev's house-smoked salmon over sautéed leeks, onions, and chives, and finally, roasted linguicia and asparagus over a carrot puree.

As we enjoy the skillfully-prepared food we learn a little more about Joe and Bev. The couple opened Island Merchant in February 2005 after arriving on the Cape following earlier careers in political consulting (Joe) and accounting (Bev), and restaurant management and cooking stints in Jamaica (explaining the "taste of the islands in their cuisine), Baltimore, Washington, D.C., and Boston (Jimmy's Harborside). With Island Merchant, they've created a very intimate space that reflects their tastes in food, art, and music.

Joe and Bev make everything from scratch. In season, Bev grows all of the vegetables for the restaurant-including the Calabaza squash used in the bisque-in their home garden. Joe claims, "Our garden is as big as our restaurant." It all adds up to dishes that are highly fresh and satisfying. And don't just take our word: apparently the Island Merchant is becoming a favorite late-night spot for local chefs. Clearly a compliment of the highest order!

Grille 16 at the Asa Bearse House: Thursday dinner number two

Feeling pretty sated, we nevertheless hurry a couple of blocks over to Grille 16 at Asa Bearse House to order before the kitchen closes. We take seats in the front bar of this elegantly restored Main Street landmark, and Erin Mercolino, the restaurant manager, proceeds to take us under her wing, serving us tastings from across the menu. We start with lobster ravioli-chunks of whole lobster meat in translucent rice noodle wrappers served in a light tarragon reduction-followed by Maine Crab and Lobster Cakes with wild greens and a piquant red pepper rouille. We also request horseradish-whipped potatoes, a side dish that Doug can't resist. Grille 16 puts a lot of pride into their beef preparations, and the Tournedos Homard (twin filet mignons topped with fresh lobster, sauce cabernet, and hollandaise) certainly reflect that. But we are delighted to find the same craftsmanship in the other dishes as well. Another nice surprise is the range of premium wines available at only $5.95 per glass with a generous pour -so you can match a different wine with each course.

We always like to stop in at the Grille 16 because it gives us a chance to catch up with our friend Rick Angelini (who also owns Naked Oyster). His co-owner, Derek Sanderson, is also a major presence in the restaurant, making frequent rounds through the dining rooms, and stopping to visit with customers. They've recently introduced a new light-fare menu in the Reading Room in the back of the restaurant, so we'll be back soon to check it out.

After snacks and two dinners under our belts we SLOWLY wander out into the night, wondering how we were going to do it all again tomorrow.

Cynthia Cole and Isaac Rosen, our intrepid dining parters, dig in at Brazilian Grill

Pavilion Indian Cuisine: Friday lunch

We grin self-consciously at each other across the table wondering if we really are sitting down to eat another meal together a scant 14 hours after our two dinners the night before. But the smells of the food are tempting and the smiles of owners Narinder and Paramjit Thind are warm and welcoming, so we forge ahead. We (Doug and Dianne) have not eaten a lot of Indian food in the past, so we are interested in trying as many different items as possible. The appetizer platters-vegetarian and non-vegetarian-are a good place to start. We also select several dishes for sharing: Tandoori Chicken (marinated in yogurt and spices and baked on skewers in an Indian-clay oven until moist and tender); Saag Pancer-one of Cynthia's favorite dishes-spicy spinach cooked with pieces of fresh homemade cheese; and a couple of delicious Indian breads, Pooris, made from whole wheat and deep-fried until puffy and Papadum, a lightly-spiced lentil wafer. Delicious food and plenty of it. And, according to published reports good for your brain. Narinder shows us an article clipped from the newspaper speculating that the low incidence of Alzheimer's disease in India is attributed to the high consumption of tumeric (a ubiquitous spice in Indian cuisine). Another good reason to develop addiction to Indian cuisine-if you need one.

Narinder is kind enough to share an eggplant recipe with us, which we did not sampled during our meal. So after we test the Baingan Bhartha recipe at home, Dianne returns to Pavilion Indian Cuisine, this time with our wine guru Tracy Anderson and her toddler Maxwell George. It is a good idea to taste the real thing, as Dianne's interpretation of the chef's notes needs some tweaking and Tracy needs to reconsider her wine pairing.

The Brazillian Grill is on the agenda next. Alas the spirit is willing, but the flesh is not. We decide that the two restaurants back-to-back idea is out the window. We vow to eat lightly and resume our feast the following night.

HannaH's Fusion Bar and Bistro: Saturday Dinner

It is 7:30 and the restaurant is filling up fast at this recently opened gem at the east end of Main Street-it's a good thing we made reservations. Since opening in July of 2005, chef/owner Binh Phu and his wife Ericka McGowan have generated a lot of buzz about the richly-hued space they've created. We're early, so we cool our heels at the lovely bamboo-topped bar while we wait for Cynthia and Isaac to join us.

Once seated for dinner we are within viewing distance of the semi-open kitchen, providing us the opportunity to watch Chef Phu and his helpers in action as we consider our options and nibble on the freshly-baked bread that is served with a nicely-roasted garlic-infused olive oil. We share two starters: Godzilla Shrimp Cocktail Martini (four "Godzilla-size" prawns served with wasabi cocktail sauce) and Chicken & Chinese Sausage Fried Pot Stickers with a sweet soy-sriracha dipping sauce. We divide and conquer the entrees: Isaac orders the Mongolian Beef Stew (beef tenderloin braised with potatoes, parsnips, onion, tomatoes in a sweet soy and spicy garlic black bean sauce-recipe follows); Cynthia gets the Grilled Molasses Porkloin Medallions (topped with sautéed cinnamon, apples, and walnuts); Doug gets the Braised Lamb Shank (with onion, parsnips, ginger, and mushrooms in Cabernet Wine and Black Tea); and Dianne orders one of the specials, a Pan-Seared Frenched Duck with a sweet port sauce and Korean duck sauce. Everyone cleans his or her plate so, unfortunately, no one has room for dessert, which is a shame. HannaH's is renowned for its chocolate desserts, which makes sense since Chef Phu apprencticed for three years with the creator of the famous "Death by Chocolate" cake. Next time…

Thai House: Wednesday lunch.

Today instead of Isaac, Cynthia's colleague Joan Wright is joining us. We start with a couple of appetizers: the house specialty, Curry Puffs (potatoes, carrot, onion, curry powder coated with wheat flour and deep fried) which are surprisingly light and very delicious, and Fried Tofu which delivers a carmelized crust around the soft bean curd. For entrees we order Seafood Pad Thai (shrimp, squid, scallops, bean sprouts, ground peanut, eggs and scallions); Crispy Chicken Basil (a spicy mix of pepper, mushroom, broccoli, onions, basil leaves and hot pepper sauce); Mango Fried Rice (shrimp, chicken, mango, tomatoes, green peas, carrots, eggs, onions, and scallions), and Duck Choo Chee (a boneless half crispy duck with sautéed carrots, peppers, and green peas in Choo Chee Curry). The food comes out of the kitchen quickly and is hot and nicely presented. Eating a number of Thai dishes this way presents you with an amazing range of flavors and textures-sweet, hot, umami, crunchy, salty, and herbal-that are bright and fresh. Entrees are individual portions rather than family-style platters, so be sure to order one per person if you intend to pass your plates. The restaurant appears to do a brisk take out business.
Brazilian Grill: Friday Dinner

Everyone we know who has eaten at the Brazilian Grill tells us the same thing-the food just keeps on coming at a fast and furious pace. However, it's not just the quantity of the grilled meat that people comment on, but also the quality of all the food. And it's not just the highly "value" oriented (a.k.a. cheapskates) types, but sophisticated dinners as well. Brazilian Grill serves a churrasco a rodizio, or an authentic Brazilian barbecue. After eating there we totally agree that the food is excellent and a good value, but we are startled by how efficiently run and flat out FUN the restaurant is.

At 6:30 on a Friday night, the restaurant is full and we are given a beeper and directed to the bar to wait for a table. After a 20-minute wait, which passes quickly at the "hopping" bar, we are seated and our host explains the system. We are handed a round stop/go "button", which signals to the waiters who circulate through the restaurant with various grilled meats on skewers whether or not we want them to stop and serve us. The large tweezers on our bread plates are to be used to remove the slices of meat from the skewers. A flat price includes limitless trips to the huge "salad bar' and as much of the grilled meats as we could eat.

The salad bar has a remarkable range of items: grilled vegetables, several chicken dishes, beans, soups, cheeses, breads, and even sushi and tripe for those who are so inclined. We're really hungry and it's tempting to over indulge at the salad bar, but we go lightly and save ourselves for the grilled meat. We turn the signal button to green and immediately a constant stream of servers appear bearing an amazing variety of grilled meats: sweet succulent lamb, New York strip steak kabobs, marinated rump roast, seared chicken hearts, roasted chicken wings, and marinated pork to name a few.

The service is professional and attentive; if you wish to revisit the salad bar, a host gives you a fresh plate, and we frequently have to turn the serve button to red since the servers come by so frequently we can't keep up. The wine list was also intriguing with a wide selection of affordable Argentinian, Chilean, and Portuguese bottles.

We enjoyed the Brazilian Grill tremendously. We were too full to contemplate dessert and as we left we noticed that, an hour and a half after we arrived, the place was still bustling and there was still a short wait for a table. Obviously a lot of other people have discovered it as well.

EAT ALONG MAIN STREET- IT'S FUN

The street scene in Hyannis is attractive and getting better all the time. It's a pleasure to be in a downtown where, once you've parked your car (an easy proposition), you can shop, visit a museum, get coffee and read the paper, meet a friend for a drink, have dinner, and go someplace just for dessert-all on foot. The range of restaurants is remarkable for a town the size of Hyannis and we have just started exploring on behalf of Edible Cape Cod. Yet to come is pizza, breakfast, diner fare, seafood, burgers, sushi, places with entertainment, Cajun food…well you get the idea.

HANNAH'S MONGOLIAN BEEF STEW

The Asian ingredients in this recipe may be a little tricky to find on the Cape but we called Roche Brothers, The Brown Jug, and Ring brothers who all said they would order the items with a one or two day's notice. Chef Phu at HannaH's has even offered to give out small amounts of things like the fermented black beans and Vietnamese Fish Sauce if people want to stop by the restaurant.

Ingredients:
1/4 cup olive oil
2 lbs beef tenderloin (use end cuts if you can find them) cut into 1-1/2" cubes
1 750-ml bottle Burgundy wine, setting aside 1/4 cup
1 cup onions, diced
1 tsp garlic, chopped
1 oz volume Vietnamese Fish Sauce
1/2 cup sweet soy sauce (or regular soy sauce mixed with 1/4 cup of sugar)
1 oz Chinese fermented black beans
1 oz Sriracha chili garlic sauce
1/2 cup carrots, diced
1/2 cup parsnips, diced
1/2 cup tomatoes, diced (or hand crush canned tomatoes)
1/2 cup potatoes, diced
1/2 cup button mushrooms, cut in half
1 oz volume of cornstarch

Method:
Position oven racks to fit cooking pot, and pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.
Using an oven-safe, heavy-bottom (minimum 4-quart) pot, heat olive oil on medium high until it shimmers.

Cook steak cubes until nicely browned. (Don't overcrowd pan; work in batches if needed.)
Pour in bottle of wine, reserving 1/4 cup. Deglaze pan by scraping up the tasty brown bits
Add onions, garlic, Vietnamese Fish Sauce, sweet soy sauce, fermented black beans, and Sriracha Sauce. Bring to a slow simmer and cook for 10 minutes.
Add carrots, parsnips, tomatoes, potatoes, and mushrooms and return to a simmer.
Cover with foil or lid and finish in the oven for 25 minutes.
Remove pot from oven and set on stovetop with burner off-put a pot holder next to it to remind you it is hot!

Mix cornstarch and reserved wine into a slurry, and add mixture to pot.
Turn heat on medium high and stir about two minutes until stew has returned to a simmer and slightly thickened.

Serve in bowls with rice and garnish with chopped parsley

Wine suggestion from Tracy:
The bold and spicy flavors in this dish are a great match for an earthy and slightly spicy red. Best bets are a French Syrah/Grenache blend or an Australian Shiraz.
Example: Domaine Roger Perrin Chateauneuf du Pape (France) $30.99.

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