|
When I met with Tom Zurn, Director of Business
Development for capeAbilities Farm in Dennis,
we went directly to the farm's three greenhouses.
These appear at the end of the simple driveway
leading from Route 6A to the farm, roosting like
futuristic quonset huts quietly dozing on the
Cape landscape. The first thing Tom asked me was
if I am allergic to bees. As we entered the first
greenhouse, I could see why: the micro-environment
was teeming with resident bumble bees busily pollinating
the tomato plants.
The tomato seeds are planted in January and transplanted
in March in their own greenhouse. The temperature
within the greenhouses is regulated closely by
a heating and cooling system powered by propane
and electricity to maintain ideal growing conditions.
Zurn cited 82 degrees as the ideal temperature
for tomatoes. The goal for this year is to produce
16,000 lbs. of tomatoes. The first week, mid-May,
yielded 390 lbs, the second week, 600 lbs. and
the third week, which was the first week of June,
yielded 800 lbs. Tom's main goal is to twin great
crop yields, such as this, with the provision
of successfully creative employment opportunities
for the handicapped.
The growing technique is hydroponic, which means
all the nutrients, for example, potassium, sulfite
and Epsom salt, come from water via hoses to the
plants. This allows complete control over what
nourishes the tomato. Since nourishment equates
flavor in the fruit, it also ensures the same
tasty results time and time again. The tomatoes
are grown on strings allowing them to reach a
length of up to 25 ft by the end of their season.
The fruit is picked up the vine from the bottom
to the top as the plant lengthens. This leaves
a stem topped by vibrant red orbs of fruit. In
an extreme realization of the tomato plant as
a vine, the stem wends its way ever further to
the right along the hanging frame installed to
support it. The end result is a plump, beautifully
textured tomato full of flavor that would grace
any salad bowl.
The situation is much the same in the second
greenhouse Tom led me through. This one contains
the most verdant crop of lettuce I have ever seen.
The sort of lettuce Peter Rabbit dreams of in
the sort of colors interior designers are inspired
by. There are ten kinds of lettuce, among them:
Romaine, Boston, Bib, Miners, Salad Ball and Arugula.
This is Technicolor lettuce in flavor as well
as visage. It is so delicately balanced and perfectly
crisp that it may be wise to entirely forgo the
salad bowl at this point. Instead it could be
served in pieces from a beautiful plate as an
hors d'oeuvre with a pinch of sea salt. The lettuce
grows in water trays through which water, mixed
with nutrients, constantly flows. The nutrient
mix can be replaced by cold water to cool the
plants down in the hottest summer weather to avoid
bolting. The lettuce is cut so its growth can
continue and its harvest is rotated through the
trays. Seventy to 100 lbs is harvested weekly
while the plants maintain new growth.
The third greenhouse is home to cucumbers, red
and green peppers, eggplant, zucchini and basil.
Tom showed me the basil tree he is establishing
here which will include several kinds of basil
growing along a framework of PVC pipe to ensure
constantly flowing water and nutrients.
The idea of hydroponic farming dates back to
at least the 17th century when Francis Bacon wrote
a book about growing plants without soil. The
word hyroponic is from the Greek for 'working
water' and that is exactly what the plants are
grown in. This method of farming has been found
useful in environments that are too harsh to allow
conventional soil cultivation. It can produce
a lot of uniform product in one place and allows
the farmer increased control over the environment.
It also extends the growing season: capeAbilities
produces vegetables until December. The season
ends when there is too little daylight for the
plants to flourish. Potentially, this could one
day be resolved by the use of solar panels or
wind turbines for increased power. The controlled
environment of the greenhouse renders the farmer
less exposed to the fluctuations of weather and
soil conditions. However the farmer is not completely
immune to outside influence as there can still
be issues with aphids, for example, or an electric
failure could result in a temperature shift harmful
to the plants.
The produce from the greenhouses at capeAbilities
is sold at their farm stand at 460 Route 6A in
Dennis, at the Mid-Cape Farmer's market every
Wednesday in Hyannis and through their salad club.
The salad club, currently in its second year,
has grown from 40 members to 125. Prospective
members must first join a waiting list before
they are admitted to the actual club. Members
receive a weekly mix of salad vegetables including
3 lbs of tomatoes, 1/2 to 3/4 lbs of greens; cucumbers,
herbs and peppers, eggplant and zucchini.
CapeAbilities also supplies several local restaurants
with produce, including 902 Main, The Naked Oyster,
Blue Moon Bistro and the Brewster Fish House.
Jeremiah Reardon, the chef at Brewster Fish House,
met Tom Zurn at Edible Cape Cod's Chef/Growers
Collaborative last December at The Red Pheasant
and has been serving capeAbilities produce for
the last month. He is delighted with such a great
local product and continues: "everything
I've gotten from them has been very good. Customers
love it; they want to know how you get the tomatoes
ripe so early." He especially enjoys not
having to wait until late July to change his menu.
CapeAbilities was founded as Nauset Workshop
in 1968 as a non-profit organization that provided,
in addition to housing and transportation, jobs
for the handicapped. In 2006 Nauset Workshop became
capeAbilities and the capeAbilities farm is an
entrepreneurial venture within the wider context
of the organization. The farm itself was founded
by John and Cathy Mulligan after they returned
from a trip to Disney's Epcot Center where they
were so impressed by the Land Pavilion's hydroponic
farming that they came home and started their
own establishment. John is a past capeAbilities
board president and Cathy currently sits on the
board. Two years ago they passed on the land and
the farm infrastructure they had created, for
a nominal lease, to capeAbilities. Tom Zurn said,
while gazing at the greenhouses, that "without
John and Cathy Mulligan, this would not have been
possible". Other funding for the venture
came from TD Bank North, the Mass Mechanical Association
and the Mellon Foundation. Additionally, the farm
received Commonwealth support for providing services
to the disabled.
At a mere two years old, capeAbilities Farm is
an evolving farm. It consists of eight acres of
which two are currently in production and the
possibilities for the remaining acreage are considerable.
The land is typical of the north side of Cape
Cod as it slopes from its highest point on Route
6A north down to the marsh. It is a place of blueberry
bushes, sea breezes and sea gull cries ending
in protected wetlands.
Tom Zurn was happily impressed by the welcome
the farm received from the wider farming community
in its first days. Instead of competition there
is recognition that more farms are needed to provide
local produce to an ever increasing market. While
capeAbilities is not a certified organic farm,
it does employ organic principles as widely as
possible. For example, when aphids were a problem
last year, they were fought with weapons such
as saddle soap and hornets. According to Tom,
the only time to consider drastic conventional
methods would be if something serious were to
occur, such as if the entire tomato crop were
at threat from white fly. Fortunately that has
not happened.
While capeAbilities' first year was centered
on its greenhouses, this year has seen the establishment
of additional outside gardens. There are beds
full of Heirloom and Roma tomatoes. There is a
profusion of flowers between and around the greenhouses
including Asters, Cosmos, Hollyhocks, Zinnias
and Geranium which provide colorful decoration
and are also for sale. Herbs are also flourishing
in the soil and direct sun and you can buy them
in a wonderful hanging basket to snip bits from
while cooking.
When Tom Zurn outlined the farm's goals he included
the provision of 3,000 hours of paid work for
their disabled employees, who are, in effect,
the farmers. They work part-time in small shifts
at everything from seeding, growing and maintaining
the produce to packing it and selling it. The
challenges Tom encounters daily include training,
the amount of labor and the matching of skills
to tasks. A typical workday at the farm starts
at 7:00 a.m. and ends at 11:00 a.m. to take advantage
of the coolest temperatures. Five employees work
each day. One great aspect of the farm is the
resulting association of a really high-end product
with the handicapped.
Twenty-two year old Kyle Kratschman is an employee
of capeAbilities. He has worked for the organization
for one year and at the farm for two months. I
spoke to him while he was outside filling pots
with rich black soil and he said that the "farm
is good." He likes picking produce and is
proud to see the growth of lettuce, his favorite,
from seed to maturity. His colleague Noel Turzyn
chatted with me between greenhouses. This is his
second season at the farm. He works three mornings
a week and is happiest mowing the grass. He also
enjoys working with the lettuce and cucumbers,
as these are his favorite foods. He considers
it a good, permanent place to work and feels good
producing food for the community.
On a warm June morning Tom Zurn's commitment to
the farm, its employees and its produce was evident
as he explained the wider vision: "capeAbilities
is trying to create opportunity for passion in
people's work. Not just jobs, but partnerships
for people coming to work. The farm gives people
a chance to love coming to work, and people who
are really successful love to go to work."
He is providing creative employment and one of
his big goals is to match the job to the employee.
He maintains that we "cannot fill unneeded
jobs within the community simply because it is
supporting people with disabilities. Unneeded
jobs will not last. The jobs at capeAbilities
Farm will maintain themselves because there is
a need for locally grown food, and consistently
good locally grown food will maintain its own
market."
This speaks of the interconnectedness of everything.
As the bumblebees are ensured steady work in their
own niche as long the greenhouse requires pollinating,
the employees of capeAbilities Farm are ensured
rewarding jobs as a result of the increasing public
demand for fresh local produce. It illustrates
how sustainability can work in the wider community
context to the benefit of all involved.
When I met with Tom Zurn, Director of Business
Development for capeAbilities Farm in Dennis,
we went directly to the farm's three greenhouses.
These appear at the end of the simple driveway
leading from Route 6A to the farm, roosting like
futuristic quonset huts quietly dozing on the
Cape landscape. The first thing Tom asked me was
if I am allergic to bees. As we entered the first
greenhouse, I could see why: the micro-environment
was teeming with resident bumble bees busily pollinating
the tomato plants.

Michael Rhodes helps sell produce
at the Mid-Cape Farmers' Market each week |
next
column =>
|
 |
The tomato seeds
are planted in January and transplanted in March
in their own greenhouse. The temperature within
the greenhouses is regulated closely by a heating
and cooling system powered by propane and electricity
to maintain ideal growing conditions. Zurn cited
82 degrees as the ideal temperature for tomatoes.
The goal for this year is to produce 16,000 lbs.
of tomatoes. The first week, mid-May, yielded
390 lbs, the second week, 600 lbs. and the third
week, which was the first week of June, yielded
800 lbs. Tom's main goal is to twin great crop
yields, such as this, with the provision of successfully
creative employment opportunities for the handicapped.
The growing technique is hydroponic, which means
all the nutrients, for example, potassium, sulfite
and Epsom salt, come from water via hoses to the
plants. This allows complete control over what
nourishes the tomato. Since nourishment equates
flavor in the fruit, it also ensures the same
tasty results time and time again. The tomatoes
are grown on strings allowing them to reach a
length of up to 25 ft by the end of their season.
The fruit is picked up the vine from the bottom
to the top as the plant lengthens. This leaves
a stem topped by vibrant red orbs of fruit. In
an extreme realization of the tomato plant as
a vine, the stem wends its way ever further to
the right along the hanging frame installed to
support it. The end result is a plump, beautifully
textured tomato full of flavor that would grace
any salad bowl.

Kyle Kratschman helps pick the cucumbers |
The situation is much the same in the second
greenhouse Tom led me through. This one contains
the most verdant crop of lettuce I have ever seen.
The sort of lettuce Peter Rabbit dreams of in
the sort of colors interior designers are inspired
by. There are ten kinds of lettuce, among them:
Romaine, Boston, Bib, Miners, Salad Ball and Arugula.
This is Technicolor lettuce in flavor as well
as visage. It is so delicately balanced and perfectly
crisp that it may be wise to entirely forgo the
salad bowl at this point. Instead it could be
served in pieces from a beautiful plate as an
hors d'oeuvre with a pinch of sea salt. The lettuce
grows in water trays through which water, mixed
with nutrients, constantly flows. The nutrient
mix can be replaced by cold water to cool the
plants down in the hottest summer weather to avoid
bolting. The lettuce is cut so its growth can
continue and its harvest is rotated through the
trays. Seventy to 100 lbs is harvested weekly
while the plants maintain new growth.
The third greenhouse is home to cucumbers, red
and green peppers, eggplant, zucchini and basil.
Tom showed me the basil tree he is establishing
here which will include several kinds of basil
growing along a framework of PVC pipe to ensure
constantly flowing water and nutrients.
The idea of hydroponic farming dates back to
at least the 17th century when Francis Bacon wrote
a book about growing plants without soil. The
word hyroponic is from the Greek for 'working
water' and that is exactly what the plants are
grown in. This method of farming has been found
useful in environments that are too harsh to allow
conventional soil cultivation. It can produce
a lot of uniform product in one place and allows
the farmer increased control over the environment.
It also extends the growing season: capeAbilities
produces vegetables until December. The season
ends when there is too little daylight for the
plants to flourish. Potentially, this could one
day be resolved by the use of solar panels or
wind turbines for increased power. The controlled
environment of the greenhouse renders the farmer
less exposed to the fluctuations of weather and
soil conditions. However the farmer is not completely
immune to outside influence as there can still
be issues with aphids, for example, or an electric
failure could result in a temperature shift harmful
to the plants.
The produce from the greenhouses at capeAbilities
is sold at their farm stand at 460 Route 6A in
Dennis, at the Mid-Cape Farmer's market every
Wednesday in Hyannis and through their salad club.
The salad club, currently in its second year,
has grown from 40 members to 125. Prospective
members must first join a waiting list before
they are admitted to the actual club. Members
receive a weekly mix of salad vegetables including
3 lbs of tomatoes, 1/2 to 3/4 lbs of greens; cucumbers,
herbs and peppers, eggplant and zucchini.
CapeAbilities also supplies several local restaurants
with produce, including 902 Main, The Naked Oyster,
Blue Moon Bistro and the Brewster Fish House.
Jeremiah Reardon, the chef at Brewster Fish House,
met Tom Zurn at Edible Cape Cod's Chef/Growers
Collaborative last December at The Red Pheasant
and has been serving capeAbilities produce for
the last month. He is delighted with such a great
local product and continues: "everything
I've gotten from them has been very good. Customers
love it; they want to know how you get the tomatoes
ripe so early." He especially enjoys not
having to wait until late July to change his menu.
CapeAbilities was founded as Nauset Workshop
in 1968 as a non-profit organization that provided,
in addition to housing and transportation, jobs
for the handicapped. In 2006 Nauset Workshop became
capeAbilities and the capeAbilities farm is an
entrepreneurial venture within the wider context
of the organization. The farm itself was founded
by John and Cathy Mulligan after they returned
from a trip to Disney's Epcot Center where they
were so impressed by the Land Pavilion's hydroponic
farming that they came home and started their
own establishment. John is a past capeAbilities
board president and Cathy currently sits on the
board. Two years ago they passed on the land and
the farm infrastructure they had created, for
a nominal lease, to capeAbilities. Tom Zurn said,
while gazing at the greenhouses, that "without
John and Cathy Mulligan, this would not have been
possible". Other funding for the venture
came from TD Bank North, the Mass Mechanical Association
and the Mellon Foundation. Additionally, the farm
received Commonwealth support for providing services
to the disabled.
At a mere two years old, capeAbilities Farm is
an evolving farm. It consists of eight acres of
which two are currently in production and the
possibilities for the remaining acreage are considerable.
The land is typical of the north side of Cape
Cod as it slopes from its highest point on Route
6A north down to the marsh. It is a place of blueberry
bushes, sea breezes and sea gull cries ending
in protected wetlands.
Tom Zurn was happily impressed by the welcome
the farm received from the wider farming community
in its first days. Instead of competition there
is recognition that more farms are needed to provide
local produce to an ever increasing market. While
capeAbilities is not a certified organic farm,
it does employ organic principles as widely as
possible. For example, when aphids were a problem
last year, they were fought with weapons such
as saddle soap and hornets. According to Tom,
the only time to consider drastic conventional
methods would be if something serious were to
occur, such as if the entire tomato crop were
at threat from white fly. Fortunately that has
not happened.
While capeAbilities' first year was centered
on its greenhouses, this year has seen the establishment
of additional outside gardens. There are beds
full of Heirloom and Roma tomatoes. There is a
profusion of flowers between and around the greenhouses
including Asters, Cosmos, Hollyhocks, Zinnias
and Geranium which provide colorful decoration
and are also for sale. Herbs are also flourishing
in the soil and direct sun and you can buy them
in a wonderful hanging basket to snip bits from
while cooking.
When Tom Zurn outlined the farm's goals he included
the provision of 3,000 hours of paid work for
their disabled employees, who are, in effect,
the farmers. They work part-time in small shifts
at everything from seeding, growing and maintaining
the produce to packing it and selling it. The
challenges Tom encounters daily include training,
the amount of labor and the matching of skills
to tasks. A typical workday at the farm starts
at 7:00 a.m. and ends at 11:00 a.m. to take advantage
of the coolest temperatures. Five employees work
each day. One great aspect of the farm is the
resulting association of a really high-end product
with the handicapped.
Twenty-two year old Kyle Kratschman is an employee
of capeAbilities. He has worked for the organization
for one year and at the farm for two months. I
spoke to him while he was outside filling pots
with rich black soil and he said that the "farm
is good." He likes picking produce and is
proud to see the growth of lettuce, his favorite,
from seed to maturity. His colleague Noel Turzyn
chatted with me between greenhouses. This is his
second season at the farm. He works three mornings
a week and is happiest mowing the grass. He also
enjoys working with the lettuce and cucumbers,
as these are his favorite foods. He considers
it a good, permanent place to work and feels good
producing food for the community.
On a warm June morning Tom Zurn's commitment to
the farm, its employees and its produce was evident
as he explained the wider vision: "capeAbilities
is trying to create opportunity for passion in
people's work. Not just jobs, but partnerships
for people coming to work. The farm gives people
a chance to love coming to work, and people who
are really successful love to go to work."
He is providing creative employment and one of
his big goals is to match the job to the employee.
He maintains that we "cannot fill unneeded
jobs within the community simply because it is
supporting people with disabilities. Unneeded
jobs will not last. The jobs at capeAbilities
Farm will maintain themselves because there is
a need for locally grown food, and consistently
good locally grown food will maintain its own
market."
This speaks of the interconnectedness of everything.
As the bumblebees are ensured steady work in their
own niche as long the greenhouse requires pollinating,
the employees of capeAbilities Farm are ensured
rewarding jobs as a result of the increasing public
demand for fresh local produce. It illustrates
how sustainability can work in the wider community
context to the benefit of all involved.
| Brewster
Fish House Grilled Striped Bass with Parsley
Emulsion |
|
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 tsp salt
1 bunch flat leaf (Italian) parsley
1 head garlic
1 tsp olive oil
2 ice cubes
1/8 cup water
1/2 quart extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
3 ripe tomatoes, thinly sliced
4 7-oz Striped Bass Fillets
Method:
Bring large pot of water to a boil over
high heat. Add salt to the boiling water
and then the parsley. Cook parsley just
until tender and bright green, about 1-1/2
minutes. Drain in a sieve, running cold
water over the parsley until it is cool.
Squeeze the parsley to remove the excess
water and chill.
Cut off the top half inch of the head of
garlic and trim the root end if it needs
cleaning, but do not detach the cloves.
Put the garlic in a small ovenproof dish
and drizzle a teaspoon of olive oil over
it. Place the pan in the center of a 500°F
oven and roast until soft (about 25 to 30
minutes) and chill.
In a blender combine the parsley, roast
garlic, ice cubes and water. Set blender
on high and very slowly emulsify with the
extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt
and pepper, then strain.
Sear tomato slices in hot olive oil.
Brush the striped bass with a little olive
oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill
the fillets to desired doneness and place
over sliced tomatoes; top with the parsley
emulsion and serve.
Tracy's Wine Recommendation: The
clear choice for this dish was a crisp rose.
A dish with delicate flavors needs a wine
that will enhance, not blow away. The rose,
served chilled, was clean and fruity without
being sweet, and the combination with the
fish was just right. Try: 2006 Badia a Clotibuono
Cetamura Rosato (Italy) $10.99.
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