Mystery: What IS it about the Naked Oyster?

hen you live in a desirable vacation destination like Cape Cod, you tend to play host to a lot of guests. We have a lot of guests. And, although we love to entertain at home, we frequently dine out. We think the Naked Oyster is great, but why do so many of our guests INSIST we go back to a restaurant in a strip mall in Hyannis time and again? A remarkable assortment of acquaintances love the place - from big city food sophisticates who are very knowledgeable about "cuisine" (and willing to admit it) to those who enjoy more basic pursuits, watching a ball game at the bar and slurping oysters with a couple of ice cold beers (like, say, the author). For a while we could not quite put our finger on what makes the place so special.

True, all the elements of a good restaurant are in place: the food is well prepared (try the warm oyster sampler), the interior is appealing, the wine list is impressive, and the martinis are good (consult Manny or Kristian at the bar). But there is something more. The staff is unusually friendly and knowledgeable, and they show it by having thoughtful wine suggestions or by making enthusiastic food recommendation ("Have the fluke - it was caught today, and the chef is REALLY excited about it!"). Customers order a special and carry on about how delicious it is until we have to try it. Also, it seems as if every third person greets the owner by name (or even with a hug) when he comes through the dining room.

To find out more we asked the owner Rick Angelini for his view of what makes the Naked Oyster so special. Without hesitation he replied that in addition to offering great food, the restaurant is highly integrated in the local community through its connection with suppliers, charities, such as the Cape Cod and Islands United Way, and other local businesses. Rick maintains, "Putting a big emphasis on community involvement feels good, is good for the community, and is good business."

Fiber Optics to Beurre Blanc

At the Naked Oyster, Rick has the moves of a restaurant career veteran. Actually, he was a career expert in telecommunications, spending 24 years at Verizon (nee New England Telephone) immersed in the introduction of fiber optic technologies for voice and data transmission. After he left Verizon, Rick worked for

The bar at the Naked Oyster Photo by Carole Topalian

companies that managed global fiber optic installation projects. One project involved running a cable from the United Kingdom to Japan across much of Europe, the Persian Gulf, and South Asia. Accordingly, Rick traveled and lived abroad constantly for years and experienced different cultures, food, and restaurants first hand. (Next time you eat at the Naked Oyster ask Rick how to find Wellfleet Oysters in Dubai. Despite being a self-described "customer from hades" Rick wooed and, after they both returned to the U.S., married Angela the sales manager at the Persian Gulf hotel that he used as his base.

Ultimately, the non-stop travel and the pressures of global technology projects burned him out. So Rick returned to the U.S. to be closer to family and to reflect on new career possibilities. Two consistent themes kept coming to mind: having eaten well all over the world, Rick had clear ideas about what constituted an enjoyable restaurant, and he wanted to do something where he could get deeply involved in a community and make a difference.

After speaking to a friend who was interested in starting a new restaurant on Cape Cod, Rick was inspired to give it a go despite having no prior food service experience. He did not approach the restaurant idea lightly, however, as he was keenly aware of the competition in the Hyannis area - at the time, there were more than 60 eating places within one mile of the Naked Oyster. Rick knew he needed to have a restaurant with a new feel for the Cape. With this in mind, he created a business plan that envisioned a restaurant with top-notch cooking in an atmosphere that is smart but somewhat more casual than other restaurants of similar quality. Rick calls it upscale and fun. Supporting the community by emphasizing local suppliers and contributing to local charities was also fundamental to the plan.

Local Means Better

Oysters from Naked Oyster Photo by Carole Topalian

Using local suppliers started immediately. A New England cabinetmaker crafted the large mahogany bar that is a prominent feature at Naked Oyster. When Rick could not find light fixtures he liked, he hired a local artist to spin glass shades that evoke seashells. Rick says that the interior is appealing because much of it was crafted locally and is unique.

From the beginning, Rick has also supported local food suppliers: seasonal produce from Cape Cod Organics in Barnstable, Blue Cheese from Great Hill Dairy in Marion, and wines from Westport and Truro Vineyards, among others. Rick knows all his seafood suppliers personally: Ron Buck for oysters, Charlie Sayles for Nantucket bay scallops, and Curtis Coleus for day boat fish. Rick credits Chef David Kelley, a long time Cape chef, for the excellent local seafood at the restaurant. "David knows all the local fishermen, and what fish is in season and how to cook it," claims Rick. "As a chef he knows how to bring out the best in the local seafood, and he changes the menu weekly to reflect seasonal changes in produce and fish." (Fortunately we were able to get David to share the recipe of one of our favorite appetizers - see below)

Rick and David are working with local fishermen to help them be more successful. Given that Naked Oyster uses up to 500 oysters a day, Rick approached local shell fishermen to supply his and other Cape restaurants directly, thus bypassing wholesalers in Boston where Rick used to have to buy his shellfish. Now local restaurants get a better price and shell fishermen earn a higher profit. Naked Oyster specials also emphasize "bi-catch" which is fish accidentally caught in the nets of, for example, cod fishermen. Although most types of bi-catch are not yet well known, the fish can be delicious. Tasty examples include razor fish, tautog, and fluke. This winter, Rick hopes to work with the local shellfishing industry to help enhance oyster production in order to increase the availability of harvests year round. He also has ideas about how to boost demand by branding Cape Cod oysters in the eyes of the world (think oysters in Dubai).

Commitment to community: United Way and Chamber of Commerce

Rick's involvement with the United Way goes back to his days at the phone company where he was local chairperson as well as a loaned executive to a nonprofit agency. He learned first-hand about the beneficial impact that philanthropy can have on a community and how to get people involved.
These days Rick has made Naked Oyster a hub of activity in fund raising and local business networking. He is involved with community organizations large and small, underwriting everything from school field trips to restaurant gift certificates for charity raffles. The Naked Oyster daily redeems at least three charity gift certificates with a retail value that approaches 5% of revenue. But Rick genuinely feels that, in addition to being a good thing to do, contributing to charity generates good will and repeat business from the people who use the certificates.

Rick's most significant community commitments are to the Cape Cod and Islands United Way (2004 chairman) and the Hyannis Area Chamber of Commerce (incoming president). Last year, Cape Cod and Islands United Way raised $1.1M and provided one hundred thousand units of service, which is considerable for an area with few large corporate employers.

Over the years, the Angelinis have hosted many fund raisers at the Naked Oyster - some events have raised as much as fifty thousand dollars in an evening. Three years ago, Naked Oyster was the site of the first Cape Cod Oyster Festival, which has since become an annual event at the restaurant. It includes wine, music, a silent auction, and, as you can imagine, oysters served in a wide array of dishes - baked, roasted, fried, raw on the half-shell, in a stew - prepared by local restaurants. Last year, 7,000 oysters were shucked and consumed in just three hours! Tickets for this year's event, which will be held on Sunday October 3, are available for $40 per person (for information go to www.capecodoyster festival.com). All proceeds benefit the Cape Cod and Islands United Way.

Mystery Solved: Community involvement creates the intangible extra

Rick is gratified with the restaurant's success over the past four years. The Naked Oyster was popular from the start, has enjoyed double-digit annual growth rates, and has won essentially every restaurant award on the Cape. Rick claims that managing a restaurant is like managing any major project - develop a clear plan, hire people with good personalities, work hard, and have fun along the way. There is one major element that he views as critical to his success with the Naked Oyster: being plugged into the community. Rick believes that community involvement and charitable support are not mutually exclusive to running a profitable restaurant; local suppliers and people who have participated in fund raisers at the restaurant have become some of his most frequent customers and most vocal advocates for eating there.

Dianne and I finally understand why the dining room at Naked Oyster is a great place to be. In addition to the delicious food, a significant number of people in the restaurant have deeper connections to the restaurant through the community. We'd also add that observing Rick affirms the adage that people who love what they are doing tend to do great things.

Baked Barbecue Blue Oysters
Courtesy Naked Oyster

Purists say that the only preparation oysters benefit from is shucking and eating. For the most part we agree, but we think the warm, composed oysters at the Naked Oyster are incredibly good. Rick Angelini and David Kelley were kind enough to share a recipe for one of them - which just happens to be our favorite . . .

Serves 4 as an appetizer

Ingredients:
12 fresh shucked oysters in their shells (Naked Oyster uses Wellfleet Oysters)
Caramelized onions (an Edible Cape Cod recipe follows)
Barbecue sauce (Naked Oyster makes their own - I have included an Edible Cape Cod version below)
Great Hill Blue Cheese
Small piece of uncooked bacon (optional, but really good)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and put rack in middle. Lay oysters in a shallow baking pan, face up in their bottom shells.

To each oyster add:
1 Tbsp of caramelized onions
1 tsp of Barbecue Sauce
Small chunk of Blue Cheese
Small piece of bacon

Method:
Bake in preheated oven for about ten to fifteen minutes or until the cheese has melted. Let rest for a minute or two and serve.

This is delicious with a French Sancerre wine.

Edible Cape Cod Barbecue Sauce

Ingredients:
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup brown sugar
3 cups dark stock (home made chicken, or store bought low sodium beef or chicken)
1/2 cup Gulden's spicy brown mustard
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
Scant 2 tsp liquid smoke (careful with this it is very strong)
1/2 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup ketchup
2 Tbsp chili powder
1 Tbsp paprika
Salt and Tabasco Sauce to taste

Method:
Combine all ingredients except salt and Tabasco in a heavy saucepan. If you don't have a heavy saucepan, fashion a ring, big enough to fit comfortably on your stove burner, out of about a foot long sheet of aluminum foil. Put ring on burner and nestle pan on it so it is secure - this is to keep sauce from burning.

Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often with spatula. Reduce heat to low, and regulate so sauce is barely simmering. Simmer for about two hours, stirring often to prevent scorching. Add salt and Tabasco sauce to taste. Remove from heat and set aside to cool. This sauce freezes very well.

Caramelized Onions

Ingredients:
1 lb (about 3 cups) yellow onions, sliced thinly
2 Tbsp olive oil
Pinch of salt
Pinch of sugar
Fresh ground pepper

Method:
Heat heavy pan over medium heat. Add oil and, when it shimmers slightly, add onions and stir to coat with oil. Reduce heat to low, cover pan, and cook onions slowly for 20 minutes, stirring once or twice.
Uncover pan, raise heat to medium, and add a pinch of sugar, salt, and a few grindings of pepper.
Leaving pan uncovered, cook for 25 minutes stirring frequently, until onions are nicely browned.
Remove from heat and taste to adjust salt and add pepper. Set aside to cool.

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Red, White, and Blush: A Profile of Truro Vineyards
By Dianne Langeland

riving along the outer eastern-most length of Route 6A, it's impossible to miss the 2,100-gallon wine cask that towers over the west side of the highway. If, like we were, you are intrigued enough to take the Shore Road turnoff, you'll soon find yourself in the parking lot of a restored 1830s farmhouse that accommodates Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod, a neat-as-a-pin operation that produces ten premium wines, almost all of which have won medals in recent wine competitions.

On our first visit last spring, we paid $5.00 for a tasting glass and sampled five different wines: Sauvignon Blanc (a full-bodied, dry white), Chardonnay (fermented in small oak barrels in the French Burgundian tradition), Maritime Red (a unique blending of Zinfandel, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc), Triumph (a Bordeaux-style dry red wine comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc), and Reserve Merlot (an extended barrel-aged red) - all of which we enjoyed enough to purchase for closer and more in-depth "research" at home. When visiting vineyards sometimes we are seduced by what we call "RVE" (the insidious "Romantic Vineyard Effect"). RVE induces us to buy copious bottles of wine at a beautiful vineyard, only to be disappointed once we drink them at home. The setting at Truro is indeed romantic, but there was no RVE at work here. The wines were just as tasty at our dining room table as they were in the vineyard tasting room. Tasty enough for us to pursue the winemaker/owners Judy Wimer and Kathy Gregrow to get an insider's perspective of this twelve-year-old operation.

Originally named South Hollow, Truro Vineyards is the first endeavor at winery ownership for either Judy or Kathy, both of whom have plant science horticultural degrees. (Kathy received her degree from Cornell, while Judy attended the University of New Hampshire.) Cape Cod is not the terrain or geography that normally comes to mind when one thinks of vineyards, so one of the first questions we asked is why they selected Truro as the site of their winery. According to Judy, labrusca grapes grow naturally in the Cape's dunes. The sandy soil, along with the moderate temperatures and the extended growing season on the outer Cape, combine to produce European vinifera-style grapes with an intense flavor. Three varieties of grapes are grown on the Truro property: chardonnay, merlot, and cabernet franc. The weather on the Cape is too cool to grow cabernet sauvignon grapes, however, so those grapes are purchased from Long Island. Additional grapes are acquired from the Finger Lakes area in upper New York State, enabling Truro Vineyards to ensure a steady inventory and offer customers a wide range of wines.

Truro Winery Photo by Carole Topalian

Over the years since the early 1800s, the land comprising the vineyard has evolved from dairy farm to cantaloupe farm to horse farm, all of which have most likely augmented the quality of the soil. Today, the old horse barn is the hub of the winemaking activities, housing gleaming stainless steel tanks full of wine ready to be bottled and a laboratory where Kathy and Judy conduct chemical analysis of the grapes after harvest. With about 20,000 gallons of wine in production, Truro Vineyards has pretty much maxed out the five-acre lot it occupies. Touring the facility is akin to visiting a well constructed ship. Every inch of space is put to good use and is in tip-top shape.

Judy and Kathy are hands-on in all aspects of wine production - from tending the vines, to harvesting the grapes, to blending and bottling the wines, to marketing and distributing them. Given their singular involvement in the entire breadth of the operation, we were interested to learn how their calendar of activities unfolds.

All of the fieldwork they perform is manual. In late winter they spend about one month pruning the vines, removing all parts of the plants not necessary for fruit production. They select the two best canes, which they bend and attach to the fruiting wire. At the end of April when the vines start growing, the first application of organic chemicals (sulfur and copper) is sprayed on the vines; the spray protects the plants from infection by mildew and rot.

April is also when the first wines of the previous harvests are bottled. Once or twice a week, 4,000 bottles of wine are filled, one type of wine at each bottling, as the machine needs to be adjusted for the different shape of each wine bottle. Blended wines, such as the Maritime Red and Triumph, are mixed and filtered only at the point at which they are about to be bottled, thus ensuring that the wines are blended to exact specifications.

Throughout the summer, they thin out the canopy over each grape cluster by manually plucking off the leaves. This process helps the fruit ripen and makes the grapes less prone to disease and mildew. The tops of the vines are trimmed so they don't get too tall, while leaving enough foliage for
proper photosynthesis.

In September, the Vendange begins. Grapes are harvested, one variety at a time, a process that lasts about six days, two days for each grape variety. Once the harvest is complete, the grapes are crushed and de-stemmed, then fermented and aged in American oak barrels for up to twenty-four months, depending on the type of wine.

In the winter, Judy and Kathy are busy winemaking, testing the acidity, ph balance, and alcohol content of the wines. Although the wines are fine-tuned every year to accommodate the varying level of sugar in the grapes that occurs as a result of growing conditions, once a wine is formulated its basic taste is not altered.

Giant Wine Cask Photo by Carole Topalian

Chardonnay and Cape Blush were the first wines to be bottled at Truro Vineyard. In their second year of operation, the Cabernet Franc, which had aged for 22 months in oak barrels, was added to their inventory. Over the years the list of wines has grown to include three additional whites (Sauvignon Blanc, Vignoles, a semi-dry white varietal, and Diamond White, a luscious, grapey varietal with a semi-sweet finish) and four reds (Reserve Merlot, Maritime Red, Triumph, and Cranberry Infusion, a blend of Beaujolais with Cape Cod cranberries).

This year for the first time, Kathy and Judy have hired a winemaker assistant so they can focus on growing the business. Matthias Vogel, a recent transplant from Hungary, is working side by side with Judy and Kathy to understand their winemaking style. Judy admits it is a big step for them to hand over responsibility for the winemaking - after all, it was their palettes that developed each wine - but the vineyard owners want to spend more time with their retail and restaurant customers so they can better anticipate future trends in wines.

While all Truro Vineyard wines sell well, the most popular by volume of sales are the Cranberry Infusion, Cape Blush, and Chardonnay. The wines are available at many wine and spirit shops across the Cape and are offered at fine restaurants from Sandwich to Provincetown. You can also stop by the vineyard to visit the tasting room or pick up a few bottles. This fall, the Cranberry Infusion and Diamond White wines are being sold in lighthouse-shaped bottles exclusively manufactured for the vineyard. They're sure to be best sellers for the upcoming holiday season. Although we usually prefer drier wines, we were delighted to discover that we really enjoyed the Cranberry Infusion. The underlying sweetness is balanced by the tart tanginess of the cranberries. It was especially good served with the Duck Breast with Cranberry Wine Sauce recipe that Kathy shared with us (see below) and we imagine it will be a unique and tasty accompaniment to this year's Thanksgiving turkey. Try it!
Truro Vineyards is open daily 11:00 AM - 5:00 PM through Thanksgiving (Sundays noon to 5:00 PM), and Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays only from noon to 4:00 PM through the end of December.

Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod
Route 6A
North Truro, MA 02652
508-487-6200

Duck Breast with Cranberry Wine Sauce
Courtesy Truro Vineyards

The balance of sweet and tart in this sauce is delicious with duck. We think it is especially worth seeking out the wine and jam listed as it would be difficult to replace given the unique tart quality that the cranberry gives them.

Serves 2

Ingredients:
1 skin-on boneless duck breast, split into two halves
1 Tbsp olive oil
Salt and fresh-cracked Pepper
3 oz Chatham Cranberry-Raspberry Jam
2 Tbsp Truro Vineyards Cranberry Light Wine
1 tsp Balsamic Vinegar

Method:
Heat gas grill to medium or prepare charcoal grill so you can hold your hand four inches over coals comfortably for about 5 seconds. Meanwhile combine cranberry-raspberry jam, Cranberry Light wine, and balsamic vinegar in a small saucepan, and cook over high heat until hot, bubbly, and reduced slightly-about 1-2 minutes. Remove from heat and set sauce aside.

Score skin of duck breast pieces very lightly-you want to have slits in the skin, but not on the flesh underneath-this helps to drain the fat and crisp the skin. Rub duck breast lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Place duck on heated grill, skin side down, and grill 5 minutes. Flip duck and grill on other side for an additional 5 minutes for medium rare. Remove breasts to a plate, and let rest for about 5 minutes.

Place cooked breast on clean work surface and slice crosswise into 1/4 inch-thick slices. Divide meat between two warmed dinner plates, arranging attractively, and spoon sauce over duck. This is great with wild rice.

Salmon en Croute
Courtesy Truro Vineyards

This dish is surprisingly light - the salmon steams gently in the phyllo dough packages and the lemon and white wine balance the richness of the other ingredients.

Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 lb. skinless salmon filet
1 bunch arugula, washed, dried, and chopped
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 cup sour cream
4 Tbsp fresh dill, chopped fine
6 sheets phyllo dough
1/4 lb. (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup citrus dill beurre blanc (recipe follows)

Method:
Preheat oven to 475 degrees and put oven rack in the middle. Run your fingers over salmon to check for any pin bones. Remove any you find with tweezers or needle nose pliers. Cut salmon filet into four portions, and set aside. Mix chopped dill with sour cream in small bowl and set aside. Heat 2 Tbsp butter in pan over medium high heat until butter foams and then subsides. Sauté arugula over medium high heat until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Season arugula with salt and pepper and set aside.

Have melted stick butter and pastry brush handy. Remove one sheet of phyllo dough, covering the remainder with a damp kitchen towel that is covered with plastic wrap. Place phyllo sheet on a clean surface and brush the top with melted butter. Place a second sheet on top of the first and brush with butter. Place a third sheet on the first two and again brushing with butter. Cut the package of dough into half widthwise so that you have two stacks of three half phyllo sheets. Repeat process with three remaining sheets of phyllo dough. You should have four stacks of buttered dough. (Remaining phyllo sheets can be refrigerated for later use.) Working quickly, mound 1/4 of the arugula in center of each piece of phyllo dough. Top each arugula mound with one portion of salmon filet, and salt and pepper lightly. Top each salmon fillet with 1/4 of the sour cream-dill blend. Fold each piece of phyllo dough over the fish and tuck edges under to seal like a package.

Place the four phyllo packages portions on a cookie sheet, Brush tops with melted butter, and bake for 8-12 minutes until golden brown. Spoon Citrus Dill Beurre Blanc (recipe below) to cover half of warmed dinner place. Place salmon in center of plate, garnish with fresh dill sprigs and serve.

Citrus Dill Beurre Blanc

Beurre Blanc is a reduction of wine and flavorings (sometimes with cream added) into which small pieces of solid butter are whisked in, off heat, before serving The idea is to create an emulsion-not to melt the butter. This is a technique worth learning because it is so versatile.

Ingredients:
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 cup Sauvignon Blanc (Truro Vineyard's Sauvignon Blanc is excellent in this)
1/4 cup lemon juice (1-2 lemons)
2 Tbsp unsalted butter, chilled
1 Tbsp fresh dill, chopped fine

Method:
Combine cream, wine, and lemon juice in saucepan. Rapidly simmer and reduce by half, stirring frequently until mixture coats back of spoon. Remove from heat and swirl in small bits of butter until smooth-add the next piece of butter only after the last has been incorporated. Add dill, check seasoning, and add salt and pepper if needed. Serve with Salmon en Croute as described above.

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BARS

ow do you learn about shellfishing in Barnstable? Get your rake blessed, hang around BARS, and turn your bucket upside down and sit a spell.

Baby Clams Photo courtesy B.A.R.S. Archive

Guess that needs a little explanation. B.A.R.S. stands for Barnstable Association for Recreational Shellfishing. Dianne and I first learned about the organization when we went to their first "Blessing of the Rakes", and I learned about shellfish propagation while sitting on an inverted bucket at low tide sorting baby clams alongside Barnstable town staff and BARS volunteers.

The rakes, the benediction

One day while picking up our mail we noticed a flyer on the Post Office bulletin board announcing the Blessing of the Rakes, which was being hosted by BARS. Intrigued and, truth be told, looking for more bountiful yields, one sunny May morning we headed for Craigville Beach to join about 50 other souls to get our shellfish rake blessed in a ceremony performed jointly by a priest and a minister. (A rabbi and an Indian chief could not participate due to prior commitments.) In addition to getting our attention, the event succeeded in gaining a lot of publicity for BARS including some good-natured ribbing on a local morning radio program that fell under the "any publicity is good publicity" category. We liked the mission statement of the organization and the camaraderie of our fellow supplicants, so we became BARS members.

BARS: The Organization

Shellfishing has been a commercially important and enjoyable activity on the Cape and Islands for as long as there have been people walking their sandy beaches. Hundreds of years ago, Wampanoag Native Americans taught the first European arrivals how to shellfish. It remains a key commercial and recreational activity to this day.

However, recent years have not been kind to shellfish populations. Rapid development on land, degradation in water quality, and blocked access to shellfish beds, have all caused yields to decline for commercial and recreational shellfishermen alike. The town of Barnstable has made a significant commitment to shellfish cultivation, and its Natural Resources staff undertake yeoman efforts to sustain shellfishing, but conservation and propagation resources have been stretched thin over the years.

Four years ago a small group of passionate amateur shellfishermen discussed (usually while in thigh-deep water with rakes in hand) how alarmed they were about dwindling yields and, in particular, how developments like docks were blocking access to the coastline. They felt that while town organizations were addressing these concerns as part of their overall mandate, a group focused specifically on recreational shellfishing could favorably influence political and developmental decisions.

So the initial group of seven moved the conversation from the water to drier venues ashore. After a few more structured meetings the group, which had by then doubled in size, codified its mission statement, and BARS was born. The BARS mission has three elements: First to enhance access to the coast by preserving "ways to water." Second to encourage improvements in water quality by supporting town efforts to reduce nitrogen loading of the water from onshore septic systems and fertilizer run off. Finally, being so passionate about their avocation, they want to get more people shellfishing by introducing newcomers to the sport.

To accomplish their threefold mission, BARS underwrites technical reports on the impact of coastal development for various conservation commissions, and writes letters in support of water quality issues to regional newspapers and government officials. Also the group provides volunteers to help Barnstable town staff in their propagation efforts. To recruit newcomers, they provide entertaining and educational events on how to get started shellfishing-for example, what equipment to purchase and how to get a permit. Recruitment efforts have been highly successful, BARS currently has about 90 members and continues to grow rapidly.

A quick scan of BARS activities in August include attending a Barnstable Local Planning Commission meeting to represent their views on coastal issues, inviting a PhD ocean microbiologist to the regular monthly BARS meeting to discuss environmental issues, recruiting new members at the West Barnstable Town Fair, and spending more than five days helping the town with clam propagation. Propagation activities are so popular among BARS members, that volunteers are put on waiting lists.

The bucket: Quahog Propagation 101

One of the tasks where BARS members provide significant volunteer hours to Barnstable town staff is in quahog propagation. There are three parts to this activity. The process starts with seeding up to one million quahog seeds, which are about 1mm in diameter-or the size of a sesame seed. These tiny bivalves are extremely vulnerable to predators. According to Kris Clark, Shellfish Propagation Technician for the Town of Barnstable, the Barnstable Natural Resources staff has had recent high success rates growing these seeds in what is called a FLUPSY (FLoating UPweller SYstem). These are tanks, placed in a nutrient-rich area, that protect the baby clams while allowing tides to flow around them. The clams are monitored frequently to ensure they are growing appropriately and are not becoming too crowded.

In two months after they reach about 9mm in diameter, the young quahogs are placed under protective nets on the sea bottom near the coast for one year-again so the tides can wash over them. In 2003 the town planted more than 900,000 quahogs, which had been propagated in the FLUPSY system, in various bays and coves on the south side of Barnstable. This is only one part of the quahog propagation effort as there is also a north-side seeding activity using small clams purchased from hatcheries.

Once the quahogs mature sufficiently under the nets, they are raked, and then spread into authorized commercial and recreational shellfishing beds where they will attain legal harvest size in about a year.

Removing Protective Nets Photo by Doug Langeland

My task on the day I joined the BARS volunteers was to help sort-by size-young clams that had been raked after the protective nets had been removed. Once sorted, counts are carefully estimated so the Natural Resources staff can track the quality of the seed clams and also determine which techniques have the highest yield. Our final task was to broadcast these young clams around the harbor-this really means flinging them into the air so they spread out as evenly as possible in the water. In addition to being a lot of fun, it provides you with an angle on where good clamming spots are likely to be.

A major benefit of being a member of BARS is learning the best ways to prepare oysters, mussels, and clams. In fact, if you spend any amount of time with BARS members, conversation invariably turns to the discussion of favorite tips and recipes. We've shared some with you below.

BARS advocates for shellfish propagation, along with the protection, conservation, and promotion of existing habitats. They will help beginners learn how to get a shellfishing license, what equipment to buy and how to get started. The annual membership fee is $20.00. To join, contact BARS at P.O. Box 57, West Barnstable 02668.

Baked Oyster Casserole

This recipe was supplied by BARS member Ed "Clam Coot" Dutton. Ed says his mother was a "killer cook" who was always prepared to make and serve a very special dish for every member of his family. (No small feat since Ed was one of seven children!) This was one of his Dad's favorites.

Ingredients:
2 qt shucked oysters, with oyster liquor reserved
One 16 oz box of Ritz or Saltine crackers, thoroughly crumbled
1/2 lb unsalted butter, cut into dice, plus softened butter to prepare pan
1/2 cup of heavy cream

Method:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees

Butter the bottom of an oven-safe dish approximately 8"x10"x1.5" in size. Place enough crumbled crackers to cover the bottom with no gaps. Completely cover the cracker crumbs with half the oysters. Cover the oysters with a second layer of crumbs, and dot with half the butter dice. Add the remaining oysters, again covering the underlying layers completely. Cover the top layer of oysters with a final layer of crackers. Heat the reserved oyster juice and the remaining butter in a small saucepan till butter melts.

Off heat, add the heavy cream, let cool for a minute, and pour over the top of the casserole.

Bake at 350 degrees for 1/2 hour until bubbly.

Serve immediately

Clam Fritters

Fellow BARS members swoon when you mention Dayle Hoxie's Clam Fritters. This recipe was handed down to Dayle from an aunt who operated a small ice cream stand/restaurant in New Hampshire in the 1950s. After testing the recipe we can understand why it was a popular menu item. Dayle and her husband Steve sometimes dip the fritters in Vermont maple syrup.

Ingredients:
36 small clams, or as many as desired (use a lot)
Reserved clam juice produced when steaming open clams
1-3/4 cup All-Purpose flour
3 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp Salt (or to taste)
1 egg, slightly beaten
1 cup whole milk
1 Tbsp corn oil for batter
Corn oil for frying
Vermont Maple Syrup for dipping

Method:
Put 2 Tbsp water in a sauté pan. Add clams, cover, and put pan with clams over medium high heat.
Heat until clams open. Start peeking after 5 minutes-removing opened clams one at a time, and putting in a bowl. Leave unopened clams in pan, replace lid, and repeat checking and removing every 30 seconds or so all are opened. Discard any that don't open within 8-10 minutes Strain juice in pan through cheesecloth or pour carefully into bowl to reserve juice but leave sand behind. Let clams cool, remove from shells, chop fine, and set aside.

Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together in a bowl. In separate bowl, mix egg, reserved clam juice, and 1 Tbsp corn oil. Add egg mixture to flour mixture and mix very gently. Add milk slowly and mix until batter is formed-think slightly thick pancake batter. Add chopped clams and mix gently.

Heat cooking oil (2-3 inches deep) in small saucepan, to 350 degrees on a deep fry thermometer.
Very carefully drop batter by tablespoonfuls (6-8 per batch) into hot cooking oil and fry for 3 to 5 minutes, turning as they cook with a fork or tongs until golden brown. Remove fritters from oil, drain on paper towels, salt lightly, and keep in barely warm oven. Repeat with remaining fritter batter, frying in small batches.

Yields approximately 2 dozen fritters

Tip: Whenever Dayle and Steve have steamed clams-soft or hard shelled-they save a few to make fritters another day. Shell clams, put in freezer container, and cover with clam broth. They freeze well.

Grilled Cherrystone Clams

Courtesy of various members of B.A.R.S.

This recipe (if you can call something so effortless a recipe) is incredibly simple and the smoke from the grill makes the clams very delicious. We recently enjoyed these clams with a group seated close to our grill, so we could remove clams and serve them immediately. With the clams we also served grilled linquica and grilled young onions from a farmstand.

The key to grilled clams is to cook them over a hot, smoky fire until they just open. Have tongs, oven mitts, and a platter handy, because the clams get very hot. We have included a basic recipe and two variations-we are sure that readers will come up with variations of their own.

Ingredients:
Cherrystone-size clams (as many as you want - we went through about three dozen among five people 2-3 Hickory wood chunks or 1 cup of wood chips

Method:
Soak wood chunks or chips in water for an hour or more. Build hot charcoal fire-so you can hold your hand 5 inches over coals for only 2-3 seconds and add wet wood chunks. Or heat gas grill to high and add a foil packet with wood chips. Put grate on grill and wait for fire to smoke. Lay clams on grill and put lid on. Peek at clams after 2 minutes, and remove any that have opened-try not to spill the juice out of the clams. Close grill and repeat peeking and removing open clams every 30 seconds or so. Discard any clams that refuse to open. Serve clams with a dash of Tabasco sauce, and a lot of crisp white wine or cold beer.

Variation One: Grilled Clams with Bacon
After opened clams have been removed from grill, let cool for a minute or two. Remove top shell of clam. Add small piece of uncooked bacon to each clam. Put clams back on grill, and cook for just a minute or two. Remove and serve.

Variation Two: Grilled Clams with Cocktail Sauce
Remove cooked clams from grill, and let cool for a minute. Put 1 tsp of cocktail sauce in each clam (either store bought, or make your own by mixing ketchup, plenty of horseradish, lemon, and a few drops of Worcestershire and Tabasco sauce). Put clams back on the grill for two minutes, remove, and serve.

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The Opposite of Fast Food:Taking a Look at Today's Slow Food Movement
By Tracey Ryder

Ryder (front & center) enjoying Thanksgiving with her family, circa 1964. Her beloved gardening grandmother, "Nana," is pictured to her right.

Celebrating the Pleasures of the Table

y grandmother used to hang a salt shaker from a stick in her garden so I could eat my fill of sun-warmed, ripe tomatoes as we did our "picking chores" throughout the long days of summer. After we hauled, washed, stored, or canned the day's harvest, we would often head to the butcher shop, pick up bread from the local baker, and come back home to a delivery of eggs and milk in the insulated box that sat outside her kitchen door. Afternoons were spent preparing delicious, simple dinners for the large group of family members who found themselves gathered around her table more often than not. Conversations - mostly convivial, often political, and always lively - went on into the very late evening, as did the card games that followed most meals. The stories we all tell today have their origins in those meals. Around that table, futures were forecasted and memories were made. In our family we knew where our food came from, we knew the names of the bakers, butchers, and dairymen who provided it. It was most certainly slow food - locally grown, made by hand, and shared with family and friends in a convivial setting. Sadly, this is not the case for many of today's families. With the stressful combination of too much work and too little time, many families aren't able to share long leisurely meals together like they used to. Often, meals are eaten in cars or on the run. It is rare to find a child anywhere in the world today who doesn't know where the nearest McDonald's is.

The Slow Food organization that exists today was founded in 1989 by an Italian named Carlo Petrini, in reaction to the opening of a McDonald's restaurant at the Spanish Steps in Rome. Simply put, Slow Food is the opposite of fast food. Since its beginning in 1989, the organization has grown to include more than 65,000 members worldwide, with local chapters, called convivia, in over fifty countries. The United States currently has the third largest membership after Italy and Germany. The McDonald's Corporation has a slogan, One Taste Worldwide, which makes their mission of global homogenization quite obvious. Slow Food, on the other hand, believes that thousands of authentic tastes are better than one. In each community where a Slow Food convivium exists, you will find a group of people who are passionate about their local cuisine, and who gather regularly to share meals much like those my family shared in years past. In other words, Slow Food has found a way to preserve and protect the culinary heritage of our past while, at the same time, bringing it into the present for a new generation to enjoy and understand.

Something for Everyone

The goals of Slow Food are far-reaching - they span cultural, historical, political, and gastronomical arenas. And their programs are equally diverse. Whether you are interested in artisanally produced cheeses, wines, or breads; or care more about the preservation of rare breeds of animals; or flavor preservation; or are devoted to reducing the number of trucks hauling food down interstate highways; Slow Food has something for everyone. Primarily, however, Slow Food is about sharing the pleasures of the table with neighbors, friends, and family. It's about gathering to celebrate the abundance of local foods in each community it serves. And it's about sharing those meals slowly - about literally taking the time to taste the food we are putting into our mouth - bite by bite, flavor by flavor.

Eric Schlosser, in his foreword to The Pleasures of Slow Food, by Corby Kummer writes: "Slow Foods are mainly peasant foods - dishes and ingredients that have been prepared the same way for centuries. They are time-tested. They spring directly from regional cultures and cuisines."

The Ark, the Presidium, and the Slow Food Award

In addition to the gastronomic goals of Slow Food, there is a strong educational component as well. At the heart of this effort are three initiatives-three ways to help people grow, produce, and consume the right kind of food. The ideas are easy to understand, and once you understand them, you want to join in to support them. As described by Corby Kummer in his book, The Pleasures of Slow Food, they are: "the Ark, a directory of endangered or rare foods from around the world that members rescue by enjoying them; the Presidia, grassroots organizations that Slow Food helps with advice and money as a way of making Ark foods available to the general public; and the Slow Food Award, the Nobel Prize of biodiversity, which brings inspiring artisans and agricultural activists, mostly from the Third World, to international attention and gives them concrete assistance."

In the Slow Food movement, everything starts locally. All it takes is a leader to bring in members and start a chapter. Then you need a local cuisine - Cape Cod anyone? And finally, you must desire to preserve and protect that cuisine by sharing meals with the people who grow or produce it in a pleasurable, celebratory way.

At the heart of Slow Food is the belief that if you have a good time while you eat, you'll have better meals - and a better life. Sounds like the simplest way to a better life I've heard in a long time.
Bon Appetit!

Slow Food FAQs

On the web: www.slowfood.com
Or www: slowfoodusa.com

Memberships:
Individuals: $60 per year
Couples: $75 per year
Memberships are tax deductible
except for the $15 that goes toward
the costs of the Slow publications you will receive

For information on how to start a local convivium contact:
Slow Food U.S.A. National Office
434 Broadway, 6th Floor
New York, NY 10013
Tel: 212-965-5640
Fax: 212-966-8652
Email: info@slowfoodusa.org

Slow Food Boston
Convivium Leader: Brian Crouth
bcrouth@mac.com